beginner trad routes in devils lake
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i currently have a basic rack am getting more and more into trad. I will be spending some time at devils lake for sure and was wondering what are some better routes here for getting into trad more? |
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skierhs wrote:i currently have a basic rack am getting more and more into trad. I will be spending some time at devils lake for sure and was wondering what are some better routes here for getting into trad more?How hard do you want to start? Foreplay is a classic route to do your first DL lead on. The Spine is great too, and gives you the option of shooting for the 5.6 variation to start, and bailing into the 5.4 if you get in a little more than you bargained for. Queen's Throne can be really well protected and might be the best choice. It should go without saying, that this is all just my opinion and that anything you do is your decision. Routes change sometimes and you need to make the call at the base if you are up to the route you are about to climb. If I was going to make my first lead at Devil's Lake, it would probably be on one of these three routes. Make sure you have a solid understanding of protection placement and systems as well as anchoring before you go. |
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The Bone is a good first lead. |
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I spent a lot time last summer learning how to trad at Devil's Lake. Here's a partial list of low-grade climbs I tackled that really helped me learn the ropes: |
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I agree, Queens Throne would be the best choice for a first lead. The Bone is good climbing, but rope drag can be an issue for a new leader. |
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Trad novice here. |
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Bill McKirgan wrote:The Bone is a good first lead. mountainproject.com/v/the-b… To practice multi-pitch Turks Head Ridge is fun too. mountainproject.com/v/turks…Turk's Head Ridge is great, but I wouldn't want it to be my first lead, route-finding is a pain and the climbing is, shall we say, less-than-aesthetic at times. |
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James M Schroeder wrote: Turk's Head Ridge is great, but I wouldn't want it to be my first lead, route-finding is a pain and the climbing is, shall we say, less-than-aesthetic at times.Agreed, it is tough to find the start and it does wind around quite a bit. |
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Sunken pillar good pro all the way. |
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Why would you climb "in "Devil's Lake?? A little WET! Climb AT Devil's Lake! LOL |
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Queen's Throne is a must lead classic as everyone mentioned. |
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5.easy trad leader here. mostly just long out of practice, what is everyones favorite rack to take to DL? I have never been. |
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For easier routes, a set of nuts, a set of cams, 8-10 runners and draws, and a cordolette. Doubles in whatever your favorite size gear is. |
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Most of the best ones have been said but Easy Overhang is a good easy route that you could sew up to practice placing gear. |
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A second for Cleo's Needle |
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The Bone |