Beginner Shoe Suggestion — Where to start?

Shoes seem to be discussed a lot. I've been doing a lot of reading but still not sure where to look. Application is, for the immediate future, 100% indoor gym climbing as I'm just starting out. Been using the gym's rental shoes (Evolv lace-ups of some sort, they're green and brown) in size 13.5. My street-shoe size in typical sneakers is like 11.5 US or so depending on the brand. I tried on a bunch of shoes at my gym and none of them really felt good.

I've read that you're supposed to size down a little from your street shoe. But I can't even get my foot into an 11.5 climbing shoe, let alone an 11 or 10.5. I don't know how y'all do it. The best I found so far is the Evolv Spark in size 13.

I'm looking for something that's comfortable and not super arched and curved. I have wide, flat feet. And I want something comfortable so I can actually climb and enjoy myself until I start getting better. If climbing is painful, I probably won't want to continue to do it... I can deal with something that's tight. But if my toes are curled under a lot, then it's way too painful.

So any recommendations on some shoes to try on? There's like a million options so it's hard to know where to even start.

The Tenaya Amigo look like they might be a decent choice. But I'd have to order them online. No stores in my area carry them.

Try the Scarpa Force X you should be able to size it your street shoe size or a 1/2 size down. Awesome shoe.

Sunny-D wrote:Try the Scarpa Force X you should be able to size it your street shoe size or a 1/2 size down. Awesome shoe.

Cool, will see if any local shops have it to try on, thanks!

Some shoes I've tried on are way off from my street shoe size. Try on a bunch and find a pair that's comfortable, without too much hanging past your toes. Don't worry about any "rules" like sizing down a half size from your street shoe size. I wouldn't get stuck on a particular brand or model of shoe.

You want to enjoy your climbing experience? Wearing comfy shoes is a good start.

Edit: Do you have a climbing shop near you where you can try on different types of shoes? That would probably have a better selection than a climbing gym.

I'm in San Francisco. Only shops here are my climbing gym, REI and a local sportswear shop. None of them have amazing selections.

At REI now. Trying a few shoes. La Sportiva Nago and Scarpa Helix. If a shoe "farts" when you walk/move does that mean it's too large? Like farting with your hand and arm pit.

The Nago seems decent. I'm sizing down in that and I'm at a 45. I think I can go smaller to a 44.5. But they don't have one to try. Scarpa seems ok too but it farts a lot haha.

Still trying more. They have an ok selection but not a lot of sizes.

At least if you climb in new shoes from REI and they hurt after a while, you can return them within a year. They do have a limited selection. Go for comfort!

FrankPS wrote:At least if you climb in new shoes from REI and they hurt after a while, you can return them within a year. They do have a limited selection. Go for comfort!

Awesome. That's probably what I'll do.

So far it seems like La Sportiva lasts fit my foot the best. Or I should say the least worst haha. The Mythos Terra in 44.5 is pretty good. I might be able to go down to a 44 even.

I agree about going for comfort first. Just a far warning though, all shoes, especially leather heavy ones like la sportiva and 5.10, will tend to break in significantly after about a month of moderate climbing, usually up to at least a half size (US). Also, My nagos "farted" a lot too, I think it was a common problem, but while its not ideal I still really enjoyed that shoe and it worked great (It does make your feet red for some reason). Good luck and happy climbing!

If you're looking at the Mythos, size them a little small. They'll stretch to fit your feet perfectly. They're not a top performing shoe, but not bad at all either, and (especially once they stretch to fit your feet) they're very comfortable.

FourT6and2 wrote:If a shoe "farts" when you walk/move does that mean it's too large?

Not necessarily, I'm a size 12 street shoe and wear climbing shoes from 10.5-11.5 and they "fart", I think its just a characteristic of how the shoe conforms to the foot. I'm a huge believer in Evolv, great shoes, you may look into the defys, addicts, spark,or some closeouts they may have in a large size too.

After trying every shoe they had (REI), I went with the Mythos Terra. If they "break in" and stretch too much, I can exchange them for a half size down thanks to REI's awesome return policy.

The Nago and Helix were the others that seemed to be pretty good.

For a more aggressive shoe, the Testarosa was surprisingly comfortable.I think I needed to go up a half size. But they didn't have any to try. So I'm sticking with the Mythos for the time being. I can see myself going to the Nago after the Mythos and then to the Testarosa. Sorta getting more aggressive over time if I stick with it.

Most of the La Sportiva shoes I tried on seemed to fit me better than Evolv or 5.10.

Yeah. You just have to try on different shoes to see what fits. If they hurt don't get them. You want snug not toe crushing. Sizing can be a pain from company to company. I originally climbed Sportiva but later found Evolv had shoes that were cut much better for my foot.

The force x is a much better shoe then the helix from Scarpa. The rubber between the 2 is vastly different

Though you already got some shoes, I recommend trying on the LS Tarantulas. They were my first beginner pair and I can't vouch for them enough. They preform well in every gym scenario that I've encountered. For comfort, top-notch. My gym had a shoe demo day recently where I tried half-dozen shoes on and my Tarantulas were the most comfortable by a good margin. Sizing will be as you hear, try one or two sizes down. I got mine one size down which was fantastic to start, but they did stretch, leaving space in the heel for me to go down another half size or full. From what I remember of the Mythos is that the lacing can take a pretty long time compared to other laced shoes. The tarantulas do have laces, but less sets of them to tighten, saving time getting them on and off. Yet another positive note I have is the price, $80, $60 less than Mythos. Enough for a new harness if you don't go crazy.

Just go to REI and try a pair on.

What's wrong with a climb-x every once in a while? We all need a release. Every one of us has a pair in our sock drawer somewhere.

I suggest the five ten Anasazi the fit true to size and are not down turned. They do everything well.

FrankPS wrote:At least if you climb in new shoes from REI and they hurt after a while, you can return them within a year. They do have a limited selection. Go for comfort!

Are you serious? Giving an advice like that on the interwebs is not only unethical but also irresponsible. Where do you think the worn shoes go and who gets to pay for them? We all do - the shops return to manufacturers and manufacturers pass on the expenses to consumers in return... BY RAISING PRICES FOR ALL OF US! I don't shop at the big box stores like REI, but people like you ruin it for everybody, thank you very much.

doligo wrote: Are you serious? Giving an advice like that on the interwebs is not only unethical but also irresponsible. Where do you think the worn shoes go and who gets to pay for them? We all do - the shops return to manufacturers and manufacturers pass on the expenses to consumers in return... BY RAISING PRICES FOR ALL OF US! I don't shop at the big box stores like REI, but people like you ruin it for everybody, thank you very much.

It is neither. And I'm not talking about sport climbing.

As far as shoes, just get Muira lace ups and you are done.

doligo wrote: Are you serious? Giving an advice like that on the interwebs is not only unethical but also irresponsible. Where do you think the worn shoes go and who gets to pay for them? We all do - the shops return to manufacturers and manufacturers pass on the expenses to consumers in return... BY RAISING PRICES FOR ALL OF US! I don't shop at the big box stores like REI, but people like you ruin it for everybody, thank you very much.

No need to get your panties in a bunch. I'm talking about shoes that genuinely don't fit (even though they felt OK in the store). Wear them a few times, they hurt your feet, return them.

I am definitely against abusing their return policy, but I guess "abuse" has different meanings to different people.

I know a guy who wore a hole in his climbing shoes after six months and wanted to return them because they "didn't last long enough." That's abuse, to me.

Here we go with the great REI debate!

Edit: Used shoes, returned to REI don't go back to the manufacturer. They are sold at a discount at REI's used gear sales ("Garage sale").

Tom Stryker wrote:No it's both, and your lack of ethics doesn't change a thing. As far as shoes, just get Muira lace ups and you are done.

I don't ascribe to your version of ethics.