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 ADVANCED
Lower Slabs
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Beginner route T,TR 
Beginners Direct TR 
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Beginner route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,217
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

Start on a platform of roots and dirt... Head up the smooth slab (crux) to a good flake... The climbing eases up and heads to the left to finish where the book finishes....

Perhaps this was once a good beginner route but i find the beginning to be very slippery and not fun for new folks... If you have a little slab climbing under your belt its not too bad... As with most pawtuckaway routes the years of TRing have taken their toll on the friction...

A good lead if you are just getting in to leading trad but know how to climb pretty well... The first moves don't protect but once you get to the flake its all good gear...

Location 

10-15 feet right of the book...

Protection 

Small rack of cams and nuts... Or a top rope from big trees...


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I've also heard this route called Almond Joy, and the one to the right of it called Mounds.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Dec 4, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Ladd, I believe Almond Joy and Mounds are on either side of these routes, one being 5.9- and the other 5.9+, not sure which though.
By J Meagher
Apr 6, 2014

The start of this is really thin, I definitely wouldn't call it 5.6 but the rest is really fun!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 6, 2014

when i forst climbed it 20ish years ago it was still thin but there was friction so it did feel 5.6... these days with that marble polish, yeah, its not easy to get established...