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Beginner Mountaineering Route Suggestions - N. Cascade Region
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By TFerguson
Nov 7, 2012
Seneca Rocks, WV

Hi all,

I am looking for suggestions on good beginner winter mountaineering routes in Washington. I am not ready to hit it quite yet, but want something to set my sights on! Preferably I am looking for climbs that can be done over the course of a weekend, but I'm open to all suggestions.

Cheers


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 7, 2012
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

Sahale Peak via the Sahale Glacier. Well traveled trail in to a gorgeous high camp, some snow climbing, a short glacier, and a rope length of rock to a a 4th/low 5th class summit.

High camp for Sahale Peak
High camp for Sahale Peak


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Nov 7, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

What kind of mountaineering do you want to do? Glacier, ice, rock?

lucander wrote:
some snow climbing


Probably going to be a lot of snow climbing in the winter. Also, they'll be several extra miles of hiking since the road closes.


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By Rafe
Nov 7, 2012
hardman

Access is difficult to most of the N cascades during winter time. Im not sure about specific routes but if I wanted to get my winter mountaineering on Id look at peaks close to ski resorts, as their roads are kept open during the winter. Snoqualmie alpine lakes area would be a good place to look. There are a lot of smaller peaks in the vicinity of the Mt baker ski area was well, and of course Mt Shuksan.


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By Kyle Pease
From Missoula, MT
Nov 7, 2012
Goat on Brothers

In the Olympics: Mt. Ellinor is a great day outing and pretty popular. Mt. Washington is right next to it, which is also a good scramble. Traversing between the peaks is also done occasionally in the winter.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 8, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

thermogenesis


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By Elias
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 11, 2012
In Healy Mountains of AK

Hey Tess,

First of all, Winter mountaineering is definitely something I'd only recommend if youve already had experience real winter camping and done some mountaineering already. The mountains get pretty crazy and dangerous in the winter.

As for the Second thing, The N. Cascades get dumped on in the winter so I have to agree with Rafe. If your heading up on peaks out and around there You'd probably want some skis or snowshoes so you're not postholing left and right.

Then thirdly, I'd have to disagree with Lucander due to the long steep approach (which is sort typical for this region... :P), and then for the Avi risk while traversing Quien Sabe G. under sharks, and then of course because the final Class 3/4 scramble to the top. Thats something Id advise doing for your first time with a guide, or experienced friend. But Rafe makes a good suggestion with Shuksan (never been on it later than October though...) and Baker (but that mountain is socked...)

So yeah, maybe consider waiting for a bit? Or hitting up an experienced friend to come out and enjoy the suffering with you? ;)

Anyways good luck, and stay safe,
Elias


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