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 ADVANCED
Lower Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before There Were Nine S 
Coldfusion T 
Cryogenics T 
Engagement, The S 
Espresso Love S 
Grotto Wall Traverse T 
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 
Headless Franken Chicken S 
Insurrection S 
Knuckle Head, The S 
Mad Arab T 
One for the Road S 
Pea Brain S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 
Stage Fright S 
Stand By Your Van T,S 
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 
Tarzan S 
Twin Cracks T 
Under Pressure S 
Under Pressure - Extension S 
Unknown 13b? S 
Victims of Fashion T,S 
Wire and Fire T,S 
YQ T,TR 

Before There Were Nine 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell, late '90s
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: j wharton on Jul 2, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Cryptic series of granite slimpers.

Description 

Rated .13b and referred to as #15 in Perkin's book, this route is among the best hard climbs on the Pass, deserving of a proper name, a realistic grade, and more atention. Originally bolted by Kurt Smith, and extensively projected by Dave Pegg and Phillip Benningfield, this route resisted all attempts untill Tommy sent in his typical crushing style. Very technical, slightly overhanging climbing on small crimps and sidepulls. Granite climbing of this style doesn't get much better.

Location 

From Cryogenics walk around the corner to the short, long shield of smooth rock that hosts a handful of hard sport routes. Walk slightly uphill between the rock and the base of a large dead (fallen) tree. Before There Were Nine starts on a boulder directly behind the large live tree before the trail steepens uphill. Another hard route (Unknown 13b?) starts just to the left of this boulder; both routes share the same anchor high on the slab. Before They Were Nine can also be identified by the mix of bolt types and the old rusty buttonhead to the left of the 2nd bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts, anchor


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By Chris Beh
Jul 2, 2008

I cleaned this old aid pitch in 1987 right after I sent Scene of the Crime. But this thing was a whole different animal and I turned the proj over to Kurt. Way to keep cranking, Josh.
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Jun 5, 2012

Where is this route located? Please help.
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Jun 5, 2012

Mike- I've updated the route description to make this route easy to find. I'll also add the other routes that climb this lower shield of rock.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 23, 2014
rating: 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Yeah! A sick route with some nice granite trickery. Difficulty gradually builds until you reach the broken up rock above the 5th bolt. Hard clips. Very hard for 13c.