Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before beginning a long, vertical ascent. Engage the crux and scamper right to a corner ledge for a rest. Alternate between vertical face edges and rounded lower angle sloppers. One of the longest and most sustained routes at the Ruins.
Before Limitations is located on the right (lower) side of the cliff. It is the second rightmost route before the cliff forms a corner.
The first four bolts are shared with One. At bolt four trend left, staying on the vertical face. After the crux there are two bolts that lead into the sport, steep face section of Days Of The New. Skirt to the right for a rest before continuing upwards to stay on Before Limitations.
While listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II as a mixed route, Before Limitations is a fully bolted sport route. The first three or four bolts could be avoided in favor of gear if so inclined.
A 70m rope will get the climber to the chains and back. If a shorter rope is being used a two rope rappel is required. Stopping at the anchors of One would also likely allow the climber to reach the ground while retrieving all the gear.
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One of the best elevens around. I bolted the start, and the 2 bolt link-up with DAYS (with Tony's okay). The link-up with DAYS is an even better route (if memory serves), and quite a bit harder.
|By Joe Kreidel|
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2014
jbak's linkup between Before Limitations and Days so the New is a very good endurance challenge, with good movement and several cruxy sections. A little bit of hollow rock detracts from the overall quality, but definitely one of the better 12a's I've done on the lower part of the mountain. You will need 19 draws for this one.