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The Ruins
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before Limitations 
Big Pow Wow, The 
Black Feather 
Calf Rustler 
Crooked Sky 
Crossed Up 
Dry Country 
Duh Bulge 
Fear of Intimacy 
Four Crows 
Hole Shot 
Home on the Range 
If We Bolt It They Won't Come 
Jug Hunter 
Lost Feather 
Medicine Bag 
No Excuses 
One Green Spot 
Oregon Trail 
Parallel Ventures 
Primal Sledge 
Quick One, The 
Relic, The 
Techno Savage 
Too Far Gone 
White Eyes Arrive, The 
You Call It 

Before Limitations 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tony Lusk, GlennTodd, Brian Benedon (1998)
Season: Full Sun
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jan 6, 2013
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Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before beginning a long, vertical ascent. Engage the crux and scamper right to a corner ledge for a rest. Alternate between vertical face edges and rounded lower angle sloppers. One of the longest and most sustained routes at the Ruins.


Before Limitations is located on the right (lower) side of the cliff. It is the second rightmost route before the cliff forms a corner.

The first four bolts are shared with One. At bolt four trend left, staying on the vertical face. After the crux there are two bolts that lead into the sport, steep face section of Days Of The New. Skirt to the right for a rest before continuing upwards to stay on Before Limitations.


While listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II as a mixed route, Before Limitations is a fully bolted sport route. The first three or four bolts could be avoided in favor of gear if so inclined.

A 70m rope will get the climber to the chains and back. If a shorter rope is being used a two rope rappel is required. Stopping at the anchors of One would also likely allow the climber to reach the ground while retrieving all the gear.

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By jbak
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

One of the best elevens around. I bolted the start, and the 2 bolt link-up with DAYS (with Tony's okay). The link-up with DAYS is an even better route (if memory serves), and quite a bit harder.

By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2014

jbak's linkup between Before Limitations and Days so the New is a very good endurance challenge, with good movement and several cruxy sections. A little bit of hollow rock detracts from the overall quality, but definitely one of the better 12a's I've done on the lower part of the mountain. You will need 19 draws for this one.