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 ADVANCED
The Ruins
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before Limitations S 
Big Pow Wow, The S 
Black Feather S 
Calf Rustler T,S 
Crooked Sky S 
Crossed Up S 
Dry Country S 
Duh Bulge S 
Fear of Intimacy S 
Four Crows S 
Hole Shot S 
Home on the Range T,S 
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 
Jug Hunter S 
Kaboom T 
Lost Feather S 
Medicine Bag S 
No Excuses S 
One S 
One Green Spot S 
Oregon Trail S 
Parallel Ventures T,S 
Primal Sledge S 
Quick One, The T,S 
Relic, The T 
Techno Savage S 
Too Far Gone S 
White Eyes Arrive, The S 
You Call It S 

Before Limitations 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Lusk, GlennTodd, Brian Benedon (1998)
Season: Full Sun
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jan 6, 2013

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Description 

Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before beginning a long, vertical ascent. Engage the crux and scamper right to a corner ledge for a rest. Alternate between vertical face edges and rounded lower angle sloppers. One of the longest and most sustained routes at the Ruins.

Location 

Before Limitations is located on the right (lower) side of the cliff. It is the second rightmost route before the cliff forms a corner.

The first four bolts are shared with One. At bolt four trend left, staying on the vertical face. After the crux there are two bolts that lead into the sport, steep face section of Days Of The New. Skirt to the right for a rest before continuing upwards to stay on Before Limitations.

Protection 

While listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II as a mixed route, Before Limitations is a fully bolted sport route. The first three or four bolts could be avoided in favor of gear if so inclined.

A 70m rope will get the climber to the chains and back. If a shorter rope is being used a two rope rappel is required. Stopping at the anchors of One would also likely allow the climber to reach the ground while retrieving all the gear.


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By jbak
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

One of the best elevens around. I bolted the start, and the 2 bolt link-up with DAYS (with Tony's okay). The link-up with DAYS is an even better route (if memory serves), and quite a bit harder.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2014

jbak's linkup between Before Limitations and Days so the New is a very good endurance challenge, with good movement and several cruxy sections. A little bit of hollow rock detracts from the overall quality, but definitely one of the better 12a's I've done on the lower part of the mountain. You will need 19 draws for this one.