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An exciting, pumpy climb on rough, sharp rock through a roof, overhanging territory, and a couple of bulges.
Start on top of a tillite ramp and climb out to the lip of the roof using good handholds and poor feet. Clip the third bolt, eye the good holds above the roof and wonder how you are ever going to get there.
After figuring it out, pull up over the roof to a good clipping hold for the fourth bolt, and then wonder where the feet went. Think happy thoughts, apply the pixie dust, and float up to the fifth bolt. At this point, the feet are tricky and the handholds become temporarily devious. Continue on up using sharp, horizontal holds, sidepulls, underclings, and wishful thinking.
After the last bolt it is fairly easy to surmount the final bulge and get to the chains.
The route name comes from the squishy remains of a Box Elder Bug colony that Darren's hands left during the FA in one of the slot handholds just over the roof.
Just to the left of the "cave" section at the base of Bad Bananas. The start is easily identified by two closely-spaced bolts under the roof, next to a right-facing horizontal corner. The third bolt is in a straight line from the first two, just at the lip of the roof.
7 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Bad Bananas P1, to the left).
Aaron Child on Beetlejuice.
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Apr 17, 2008
The rock is quite rough and sharp. You should be able to find the holds by following the trail of blood I left.
From: centerville, utah
Nov 21, 2009
This is a fantastic area on cold days. This wall holds warmth and altitude. At the first jug seam there were literally hundreds of lady bugs hiding and warming. Gotta move fast thru the first 3-4 clips. Powerful moves with sketchy feet is the name of the game here. Once you get higher the holds get better with some rests. Definitely pumpy and very fun.