2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Climb the left center of the clean face high above Bailey's Overhang. Good climbing with the crux at the 7th bolt. A 60 meter rope gets you back down to the anchors at the top of Bailey's Overhang, which you then take to the ground. A shorter rope will NOT work.
By Dave Walker Aug 30, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b
Nice route. It adds some spice to Bailey's Overhang for the upper section. You can either rap from the anchors (2 raps to ground with one 60-m rope) or climb to the top of the formation and scramble down. This second option makes for a nice summit. Some may think Beetle Bailey is over-bolted, but the clips are well placed and the climbing is clean. I give it a 5.10b/c.
Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish.
My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach.
A #2 Helium friend didn't fit into the suggested gear placement, but a green C4 works great. No need for any other gear except quickdraws of course....
We had tons of rope left rapping with our 70m. Seems like a 60m will reach (4th class down-climb if not).
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO Jul 28, 2012
There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set.