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Beethoven's Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beethoven's Crack TR 
Center Route TR 
Direct Route TR 
Prow, The TR 

Beethoven's Wall  


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Page Views: 7,608
Administrators: Chris Owen, jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Oct 15, 2006
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Description 

Stoney's most popular top-rope wall has some sweet face climbing from 5.7 to 5.11a.

Routes left to right:
1) The Prow 5.11a
2) Center Route 5.10a
3) Direct Route 5.10c
4) Beethoven's Crack 5.7

Blocks are more than adequate to set up an anchor.

Getting There 

Head up the gully to the right of the wall, at the top go left up a very short wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beethoven's Wall:
Beethoven's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Center Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Direct Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Prow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Beethoven's Wall

Featured Route For Beethoven's Wall
Michael Reardon, solo on The Prow.

The Prow 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Beethoven's Wall
Start around the corner to the left - up onto a ledge then using a hold on the arete step around somewhat gingerly onto the sloping footholds, to be presented with the crux. A technical and balancy sequence leads to better holds. Now follow the arete as closely as possible to the tricky finish over the final obstacle. Classic and airy....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Beethoven's Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 7, 2007
The TR bolt anchors which were placed over the lip of the wall have recently been chopped (4/4/07) - however, there are still plenty of ways to set up an anchor.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 14, 2007
One bolt stud remains in the grove where the rope runs for the center route. Avoid running your rope over this stud. It is slightly loose in the sleeve. The right one has the flush sleeve remaining, but the stud is gone. (6/14/07)
By Christopher Michaelson
Mar 29, 2009
There are numerous boulders on top; you can sling them quite easily. Be careful of your sling placement, as several have lost (and had to cut) their slings in the past. Cordelettes might be a better option and less prone to pinching.

I slung two boulders with 1" x 30' tubular webbing and used a #2 Omega Pacific Link Cam with a 7mm x 30' cordelette as a backup.

Don't forget to anchor yourself in at the top; you will have to create your master point several feet down to avoid rope drag, and there is nothing to prevent you from decking.

You can rap down, but it's a bit sketchy because you can't weight the master point until you're literally over the ledge (again, if you are anchored in then this should not be a problem).
By Ken Isaacson
Nov 30, 2009
My sons and I climbed the 10.a and 10.c on 11/27/09. I'm 63 and my sons are 32 and 28. Seems to me that 5.9 and 5.8 are more accurate ratings.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 4, 2010
Hmmm - I'll have to go back and look at the 5.10c, it's been along time since I did it, perhaps someone chopped a hold? That's been happening a lot recently.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 24, 2011
Went back today and looked at Center and Direct - Ken they stand at 10a and 10c - the start of Direct is bloody hard in my estimation, and the Center Route is probably even crimper than I remember.