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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Unknown T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Beethoven's Fifth 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 2,526
Submitted By: reboot on Jul 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Kat TRs through the crux of Beethoven's 5th (12d, ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.

The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux section (potentially long but clean fall).

As for the grade, I'm hesitant to upgrade it...let's just call it old-school 12d.

Protection 

An assortment of small-medium stoppers, small cams to #0.75 Camalot and a #2 (or #3) Camalot. Narrow head width cams (TCUs, Aliens) work better for the first couple placements. As of 09/2012, there are chain anchors on top (thanks to Ed). A TR is best set up traversing from West Crack than Cosmosis (the top bit is not easily aid-able w/o hooks).


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008

The bottom part of this takes only sparse small gear from some insecure stances, and it's hard to see the gear to check it without compromising your balance.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2008

The bottom part of this route is slabby 5.11 protected by small gear. There's a good rest before the headwall. The crux is pretty awesome movement capped by a big move (static on micro hold, or dyno) to a big hold from which to clip the anchors. What more could a classic route want?
By Ben Sachs
May 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Sandbag. Good gear the whole way though (bring RPs for the bottom). Classic moves, stunning line.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2012

If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.
By Ben Sachs
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thanks for the bolted anchor. It needed one. I almost put one in but lost interest. Way to not be lazy!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 6, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

I'd say this barely deserves a PG-13 rating with use of modern gear. Good, if not great, placements every 6-8 feet to protect the engaging 5.11 for the first 30'. A combination of RPs, small stoppers or C3s sew the bottom up pretty well. Upper crux protected well by small cams though a long fall is certainly possible yet safe. Can't wait to redpoint this one!
By Christopher Barlow
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

Obviously, safety ratings are subjective, too, and are often hypothetical until someone (or several someones) tests it, but to me PG-13 means "safe as long as you maximize pro, but you still might take long falls," which I think describes Beethoven's exactly. That said, there's "not insignificantly difficult" climbing that is only protected by 2 equalized RPs, and below that is the ground. Sure, I believe they would've held, but it did seem kind of heads up. For sure, falling off the actual hard climbing involves air time. It's worth dealing with the gear, though, because this pitch is awesome.
By EJM
Aug 23, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

One of the nicest lines in BoCan. Plugging the crux piece makes this thing ultra-solid for the grade.