Beethoven's Fifth 5.12d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Dale Goddard |
| Submitted By: | reboot on Jul 26, 2008 |
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Kat TRs through the crux of Beethoven's 5th (12d, ...
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Description Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.
The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux section (potentially long but clean fall).
As for the grade, I'm hesitant to upgrade it...let's just call it old-school 12d.
Protection An assortment of small-medium stoppers, small cams to #0.75 Camalot and a #2 (or #3) Camalot. Narrow head width cams (TCUs, Aliens) work better for the first couple placements. As of 09/2012, there are chain anchors on top (thanks to Ed). A TR is best set up traversing from West Crack than Cosmosis (the top bit is not easily aid-able w/o hooks).
| Comments on Beethoven's Fifth |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008
| The bottom part of this takes only sparse small gear from some insecure stances, and it's hard to see the gear to check it without compromising your balance. |
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2008
| The bottom part of this route is slabby 5.11 protected by small gear. There's a good rest before the headwall. The crux is pretty awesome movement capped by a big move (static on micro hold, or dyno) to a big hold from which to clip the anchors. What more could a classic route want? |
By Ben Sachs
May 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| Sandbag. Good gear the whole way though (bring RPs for the bottom). Classic moves, stunning line. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2012
| If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped. |
By Ben Sachs
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| Thanks for the bolted anchor. It needed one. I almost put one in but lost interest. Way to not be lazy! |
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