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Bees Knees Variation
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
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Routes in Beehive Peak
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4th of July Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow PG13 |
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All in Moderation T M4+ Mod. Snow |
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Beehive Traverse T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c R |
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Bees Knees Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Five Magics M5+ |
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New World Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Original Route, aka Javaman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rastaman Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Worker Bee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 675 ft (205 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Doug Addicott and Sam Stephens |
| Page Views: | 3,202 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Stephens on Oct 2, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
A variation to Javaman: Doug and I went up to do Javaman on Beehive and wound up accidentally doing this variation finish which turned out to be amazingly fun. I don't think it's been done, and if it has not often because it was covered in lichen. Everything on the established route was much cleaner.
Anyway, climb Javaman through the crux corner and turn the crux overhanging corner following the diagonal crack left. From here I belayed directly below the vertical crack that breaks off into the CTT variation listed in Vassiloopoulos' book. Doug took off to the left in the diagonal crack and went straight up the face towards a small bush above some big blocks.
Instead of trending left to the corner system that finishes Javaman he went straight up the face and corners below the roof and then took a hard right to a small alcove (left facing corner under a small roof), below a slab. This was where he belayed (3rd belay).
Above the belay is a slab, with a right facing overhanging corner (with a tree in it) up and left of you and a large roof directly above you. From here, I pulled straight over the small roof off the belay and followed a thin, left trending flake towards the overhanging corner. Just above a small tree in the corner you move up into a slightly awkward position under the overhanging corner and pull around it to some good holds on the face.
After pulling around the corner you're on a face to the right of where Javaman goes up. This is where I think the third belay should be rather than where we established one.
Follow the face up through a small roof and some great chicken heads and knobs. Eventually you'll trend a little left as you're going up and get to some good left facing flakes covered in lichen. Follow these flakes up to a small ledge. The climbing up the face is amazing! This is where I built the 4th belay. From here continue up easy terrain to the summit.
If the third belay was moved up to where I suggested instead of the alcove we originally built it in, you may be able to move the 4th belay spot up to a larger ledge where you can continue un-roped to the summit afterwards.
Descent: Head climbers left down the ridge passing a cairn. Follow the gulley (some 4th class) down to a rap station (one 60m rope is sufficient, just watch the ends). Then follow the obvious loose gulley down below the dark bands of rock.
Anyway, climb Javaman through the crux corner and turn the crux overhanging corner following the diagonal crack left. From here I belayed directly below the vertical crack that breaks off into the CTT variation listed in Vassiloopoulos' book. Doug took off to the left in the diagonal crack and went straight up the face towards a small bush above some big blocks.
Instead of trending left to the corner system that finishes Javaman he went straight up the face and corners below the roof and then took a hard right to a small alcove (left facing corner under a small roof), below a slab. This was where he belayed (3rd belay).
Above the belay is a slab, with a right facing overhanging corner (with a tree in it) up and left of you and a large roof directly above you. From here, I pulled straight over the small roof off the belay and followed a thin, left trending flake towards the overhanging corner. Just above a small tree in the corner you move up into a slightly awkward position under the overhanging corner and pull around it to some good holds on the face.
After pulling around the corner you're on a face to the right of where Javaman goes up. This is where I think the third belay should be rather than where we established one.
Follow the face up through a small roof and some great chicken heads and knobs. Eventually you'll trend a little left as you're going up and get to some good left facing flakes covered in lichen. Follow these flakes up to a small ledge. The climbing up the face is amazing! This is where I built the 4th belay. From here continue up easy terrain to the summit.
If the third belay was moved up to where I suggested instead of the alcove we originally built it in, you may be able to move the 4th belay spot up to a larger ledge where you can continue un-roped to the summit afterwards.
Descent: Head climbers left down the ridge passing a cairn. Follow the gulley (some 4th class) down to a rap station (one 60m rope is sufficient, just watch the ends). Then follow the obvious loose gulley down below the dark bands of rock.
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