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Beer Wench 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric McCallister, Eric Hörst, Charles Ganote, and Cindy Hintz (June, 2002)
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008

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Clipping the 2nd(?) bolt

Description 

No way this puppy is 5.8-. Definite sandbag. The opening crack is at least 5.9. Get a good spot or bring a stick clip for the crux, because you'll be doing it before you clip the first bolt.

Climb the flaring crack through the bulge (crux, strenuous clip), then stray a bit right up the nice face to a short open book. Stem up the open book (5.7) to the anchors.

Location 

Below an obvious flaring crack below the far right side of the roof system.

Protection 

4 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Beer Wench Slideshow Add Photo
First outdoor sport lead.  Quite a stiff opening move.
First outdoor sport lead. Quite a stiff opening m...

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By attila
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The strenuous start is in 5.9 territory.