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> Tuolumne Meadows
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> Cathedral Peak
> N Buttress
Beer Gut
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 7
votes
Routes in North Buttress
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Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grand Central T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Lance "Milo" Cagle and Mike Bizon |
| Page Views: | 1,312 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Start: Scramble 50' or so up the easy slabs and belay off gear in a small right-facing flake-corner.
P. 1: Easy slabs with little protection, up to a bolted anchor on top of a flake. 5.3, 200'.
P. 2: Friction up and left into the large right-facing corner. Follow this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. This is a fun pitch and way easier than it looks from below. 5.6,160'.
P. 3: Climb up the steeper wall directly above the belay, stepping first a bit left and then back right, to join a smaller right-arching corner and crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, at the base of a field of big knobs. Climb the knobs (not hard, but no protection to speak of) up and a bit left to a ledge and bolted anchor. 5.7-, 170'.
Rappel the route with two ropes. The crack system continues up through the summit visor, but the rock quality deteriorates a bit.
A quality route. Rated 5.8 in the Falkenstein guide; we thought it was more like 5.7-, though thought-provokimg in spots.
P. 1: Easy slabs with little protection, up to a bolted anchor on top of a flake. 5.3, 200'.
P. 2: Friction up and left into the large right-facing corner. Follow this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. This is a fun pitch and way easier than it looks from below. 5.6,160'.
P. 3: Climb up the steeper wall directly above the belay, stepping first a bit left and then back right, to join a smaller right-arching corner and crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, at the base of a field of big knobs. Climb the knobs (not hard, but no protection to speak of) up and a bit left to a ledge and bolted anchor. 5.7-, 170'.
Rappel the route with two ropes. The crack system continues up through the summit visor, but the rock quality deteriorates a bit.
A quality route. Rated 5.8 in the Falkenstein guide; we thought it was more like 5.7-, though thought-provokimg in spots.
Location
Follow the JMT to where the North Buttress slab is obvious just a few yards left of the trail. Head left about a hundred yards to low-angled slabs. The most distinctive feature of the route is a large right-facing, right-leaning corner that forms the second pitch. The third pitch ends under the large, obvious summit visor; the route does not summit the formation.
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