|The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)
This is the obvious crack to the left of "Hydraulic Sandwich". From the belay at the bottom of the crag, clip 2 bolts before entering into a chimney below the crack. Place a 5 or 6 inch piece as far up as possible and extend it. First attempt to climb up through the chimney. After most likely failing, move out right and climb a flaky, balancy face to gain the fist/hand crack. Jam the fun, dirty crack to the top and move right to the bolt anchor for "Hydraulic Sandwich" (blame it on the gut).
Rack to 5 or 6 inches.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
One move of 5.9+ on the face to get started. Don't fall. The bottom was too wide for a #4 Camalot, but I think a #4.5 would have placed OK to protect this. Crawl through a shrub to get it in, reverse the move, and then go face climbing. Up higher, the climbing is much easier. I think I only did 1 real offwidth move on the route. Not worth the effort.