|The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)
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This is the obvious crack to the left of "Hydraulic Sandwich". From the belay at the bottom of the crag, clip 2 bolts before entering into a chimney below the crack. Place a 5 or 6 inch piece as far up as possible and extend it. First attempt to climb up through the chimney. After most likely failing, move out right and climb a flaky, balancy face to gain the fist/hand crack. Jam the fun, dirty crack to the top and move right to the bolt anchor for "Hydraulic Sandwich" (blame it on the gut).
Rack to 5 or 6 inches.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
One move of 5.9+ on the face to get started. Don't fall. The bottom was too wide for a #4 Camalot, but I think a #4.5 would have placed OK to protect this. Crawl through a shrub to get it in, reverse the move, and then go face climbing. Up higher, the climbing is much easier. I think I only did 1 real offwidth move on the route. Not worth the effort.