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Beer Belly Buttress

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Beer Belly Buttress  


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Elevation: 9,000'
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mountainsense on Jun 28, 2009
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Description 

For those who brave the long approach, the Beer Belly Buttress--the spectacular, west-facing set of smooth walls located high above the Gully of Higher Education, on the north side of the road--offers some of the best stone and, indeed, some of the best-quality moderates in all of Big Cottonwood Canyon. Long, single pitches, breathtaking views high into Broad's Fork and of the Salt Lake Twins--a visit to this crag should top every Wasatch climber's to-do list!

Getting There 

The Ruckman guide describes the approach as starting "3.9 miles up canyon from the neon sign." Just past the Storm Mountain spillway, yet before one arrives at the Gully of Higher Education, a big, solitary pine near the base of an obvious scree slope marks the start of the slog. Follow the scree up and towards an obvious fin of rock; scrambling up easy 3rd class sure beats the loose talus! There are some cairns along the way, though from above, there appears to be more than just one faint trail leading to the formation. Get after it!

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beer Belly Buttress:
Six-Pack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Ribbon in the Sky   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Browse More Classics in Beer Belly Buttress

Featured Route For Beer Belly Buttress
The start to ribbon. a low bolt to thin gear

Ribbon in the Sky 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Beer Belly Buttress
"This route features some of the best quartzite in the canyon," according to the Ruckman guide. Ribbon in the Sky begins on a ledge, a few feet to the left of a scrub oak that marks the start of the Whip-Poor-Will Crack. Climb the blocky face to the first bolt. Take advantage of any gear placements as you finess your way up the beautifully featured face, past five more bolts on this long, involved pitch. A single 60m can be used to rap from the slings atop 12 oz. Curl. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Beer Belly Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Beer Belly
Beer Belly
Big tree marks the start
Big tree marks the start
what to look forward to
what to look forward to

Comments on Beer Belly Buttress Add Comment
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By zoso
Aug 27, 2012
The worst part of the approach is from the road to The Point--sucky talus. It took us about another 35-40 min from there for a total of 1 hour to get Beer Belly.....without packs. There's room for many many more routes, although the plums have been picked.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
May 6, 2013
Easy winner for the worst approach in the wasatch. Lone peak is brutal, but at least you're on a trail. This has horrendous schwak, talus, with cairns littering the slopeside leading you astray into depths of hellish no mans land never to return. We took 1.5 hours but we got lost in deep jungle brush and had to attend to our bleeding feet and sprained ankles along the way. The rock is good, but not that good. Recommend heading up there only if you have climbed at every other crag in the wasatch at least 4 times.

Anchor update: The belay atop ribbon in the sky/whip poor will etc on the main topout is still a bunch of ratty slings on a buttonhead and chockstone. Anchor on top of 12 oz curl is the same minus the buttonhead.