|969 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10d [details]|
|FA: ||T. Souders & J. Koenig, 1983|
|Season: ||Closed, last I heard.|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 6, 2006|
Susan climbing during the good old days-
This route closed to climbing and is included for historical purposes only.
Climb out and right on good gear- from 1-2.5" as you pass under the moderate (5.8?) and well protected start of the climb. Place gear up in the shallow dihedral and pull into it. Continue up the corner, placing a few small and crafty pieces from rests along the way when you get good feet below you. This consisted of small tricams and nuts for me, and one small TCU.
At the crux Lean back off of and edge, dig your toes into highstep and push yourself up the corner towards the anchors.
Rap or lower from the bolts.
On the right side of the approach trail, continue 50 meters or so past the Nicorette Arete and look up in front of you. A crack rises up and right for 20 feet before turning thin and shooting up a steep, right-leaning dihedral. On the right there is a steep pocketed face (Thirsting Skull) and on top is a 2-bolt anchor.
A set of small cams, a set of small tricams and a few small nuts.