A fun chunk of varnish I spotted while checking out the new lines on the smaller of the two Jane's walls. Some powerful moves but the rock quality, movement, and positive holds on this one are really good. The name derives from a combination of one of Janes's Addiction's best songs and some mild controversy about the FA.
Takes steep dark rock between Mannish Boys and the two 10s on the right. Begin by laybacking up a corner on hollow rock.
4 Stainless bolts and hangers, all placed on lead, no hooks, no chalk, no previewing, no bullshit (til after the FA, anyway) Stainless ring anchor hangers up top allow a more pleasant finish to the leftmost 5.10 as well, avoiding the odd and awkward traverse that I've seen people swearing on.
Feb 17, 2014
There has been a furious swarm of emailing about the FA of this ground-up line lately. If the folks who ignored the red tag, which admittedly I should have taken down when I finished the route (who knew anyone was making the hike to Jane's Wall lately?) want to contact me and have a laugh about all the nonsense over a beer, here's your open invitation. I'll even buy a beer for Larry if he wants to show up like the wizard of oz popping out from behind the curtain of his laptop.