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Beeks Bight

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L to R R to L Alpha
Burly 
Finger to Hand 
Hand crack 

Beeks Bight 


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Location: 38.7692, -121.1328 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,224
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Apr 8, 2012
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The Main Boulders

Description 

Beeks Bight parking lot in the Granite Bay section on the west shore of Folsom Lake.

Two boulder clusters with obvious established problems (including chalk marks) are just off the trail to the left. I noticed these while trail running here and grabbed my climbing shoes from the car. A three boulder cluster had cracks of varying widths to practice on, and could be traversed easily for laps. As I was leaving a local with a pad started working on the other boulder, but I didn't think to ask him what they were called.

There is a good v2/3 problem on the front side of boulder climbers right when facing the main boulder, and some good sit-start roof problems in the short cavey boulders just out of the parking lot. There is potential for more problems on the trail into Beeks if you are willing to do a lot a poison oak removal.


Getting There 

Paid/Folsom Lake SRA annual member approach

Drive in the Granite Bay entrance of Folsom Lake SRA, paying the entrance fee there. Follow the signs to Beeks Bight parking lot. From the lot, walk north on a single track trail, and follow forks north then northeast for 5 or 10 minutes.

Free/foot/bike/horse approaches

There are several free public parking areas with approaches of a couple of miles.

Note that the old Twin Rock Road park and hike is now closed to - and excessively signed against - public parking.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beeks Bight:
Finger to Hand   V1+ 5     Boulder, 1 pitch, 18'   
Browse More Classics in Beeks Bight

Featured Route For Beeks Bight
small crack on the right

Finger to Hand V1+ 5  CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : ... : Beeks Bight
this Fun finger jam is the tallest route in the area, starts out with minimal feet but finishes strong and pumpy. All around Great Route...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Beeks Bight Slideshow Add Photo
Looking north/northeast from Beeks Bight parking lot.
BETA PHOTO: Looking north/northeast from Beeks Bight parking l...
A three boulder cluster with various widths of cracks to play on, as seen from the trail from Beeks Bight.
BETA PHOTO: A three boulder cluster with various widths of cra...
far side boulder from the parking lot
far side boulder from the parking lot
Comments on Beeks Bight Add Comment
Show which comments
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Aug 4, 2012

This is the area in the Granite Bay Boat launching entrance. After entering through the front gate continue straight and you will see signs for beek bight. fallow the signs for approx. 3 miles and you will come to dead end parking lot, if you don't see the boulders from there, you need glasses!

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Mar 19, 2013

It is possible to walk into this spot, via the horsetrails, from Twin Rocks road. From Douglas Blvd. take a left up Auburn-Folsom Rd. for roughly 2-3 miles, turn right onto Twin Rocks follow for another mile until a big left turn in the road with a large dirt pull-out on it's right side. Park and hike in from here generally taking the middle or level trail at any junctions. It is a nice trail for running also just watch your step! There is a good v2/3 problem on the frontside of boulder climbers right when facing the main boulder, and some good sit-start roof problems in the short cavey boulders just out of the parking lot. There is potential for more problems on the trail into Beeks if you are willing to do a lot a poison oak removal. Lastly, I don't want to be a jerk, but I have been going out there for 20 yrs and climbers were doing the same for years before that, so don't claim FA on the most obvious v1 right in the middle of everything.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 19, 2013

Thanks for the beta Matt, I put your directions on the page.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 23, 2014

The free parking directions no longer apply.

I was out there earlier this year, and there are new no parking signs up and down that street.