Kimber Almond told me when he was exploring in the Circle Creek drainage and found this crack in the 90's that he was shocked no one had yet climbed it. He said he cleaned out the moss and lichen and discovered a sweet little yosemite like finger/hand crack in a corner.
The crux comes about mid way, and is easily overcome with some liebacking. Patina face holds adorn the right wall of this vertical right-facing route. I would agree with Bingham's guide, and give this climb 3 stars if not for the long approach for only two climbs on the formation, and shortness of the route. A budding 11a leader would likely appreciate this climb more than anyone.
Located on the east face crag that bears its namesake- look for the vertical right facing corner. Rap off.
The gear is great- it basically places itself, and you have sizing options. Bring a single set of cams from fingers to off hands. You don't really even need runners. Lower off the chain anchors at the top.
|By Brendan N. (grayhghost)|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 9, 2009
a fantastic climb well worth the hike
I sneaked around the direct start by climbing patina to the right
this is the "Crack of Doom" for 5.10 climbers, a true classic
make a day of exploring circle creek and its seclusion
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 15, 2011
I really like this route. A slightly overhanging right facing corner. For me, there were two cruxes. First crux is located off the deck until you land on the large slopping ledge. It is a series of finger stacks and wanna-be ring locks. Second crux is right when the hand crack turns to finger size (orange Metolius cam size). Just lay back and drive up to your first available hand jam. The whole route has a total of three good rests.
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There are rests after each crux. I found the gear slightly tricky, but maybe that was because I placed too much.
Short and fun! Powering through the cruxes to get to the rest stances would have been better than fiddling with gear before the cruxes.
A #3 is nice to place near the top after the last crux.