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Bumble Bee Wall
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Addis Ababa S 
Bee Pitch, The T 
Check Point Charlie T 
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Mercy Buckets T 
Mercy Street T 
Perseverance Bulge Crack T 
Sin Nombre T 
Upchuck T 

Bee Pitch, The 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Wood, Bob Irvine 1961
Page Views: 2,150
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 2, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Overview of the popular routes

Description 

The Bee Pitch climbs the obvious system which splits the Bumble Bee Wall, just right of Fowl Play (5.9 bolted route). The start is a bit hard to pick out. Look for two cracks which meet at a chockstone with webbing on it to mark the route.

P1) Climb the left crack through tough bulges up to the chockstone, then jam up to a chain anchors just left of the crack. 5.8 hard

P2) Make a difficult bulgy move off the belay, than really easy climbing leads to a ledge system. 5.7

P3) Scramble up the really easy gully to another ledge system. 4th class

Descent) Walkoff possible. Other options: rappel after pitch one (the 2nd and 3rd are not good), or rappel after pitch 2 (Fowl Play's anchors - 100 feet to the ground). I combined P2 & P3, but than downclimbed P3 to the Fowl Play anchors.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Bee Pitch, The Slideshow Add Photo
The Bee Pitch
BETA PHOTO: The Bee Pitch
Climber is on Fowl Play
BETA PHOTO: Climber is on Fowl Play
1) Mercy Street (beginning is behind pedestal)  2)...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Mercy Street (beginning is behind pedestal) 2)...
Techno Tones
Techno Tones

Comments on Bee Pitch, The Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
May 26, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with Peter on this one. Pitch 2 has a one move sequence and then degrades, and pitch 3 is obviously a waste of time. If you do pitch 2, there are still anchors to rappel off of, so it isn't too bad, but the best way is just pitch 1. There are 2 pitons on this route. 1st is where all the webbing is and consists of a good-looking angle. The second is off the ledge at the 1st belay station and is a relic. This route seemed harder than other 5.8's, mainly because of the constant leaning around the bulge. The jams were secure, they just didn't feel so secure, and the feet at the bulge seemed to disappear. All in all a good route with some nice exposure. If you wait til about 4pm, it is in the shade.
By Scott Heisler
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 2, 2007

I'd say that this route is a PG-13, as there are a lots of places along the entire route to hit if you fell. Bring a some hexes, large nuts, knuckle cams and runners to go over the bulges. The cracks on this wall are dirty, and I didn't trust my cams to not slip if yanked. That said... get out vertical on the bulges (left leaning crack) and pull! I got up to a set of chain anchors on a 50 meter rope, and was able to rappel off of them to the ground. I'm sure that I would not have been able to lower to the ground through my gear.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

FUUUUUN route. P2 and P3 can be combined w/ a 60 m rope. P2 and P3 are probably not worth doing. P1 is super fun! Bulgy and protects well. Not as hard as Satan's Corner, Callitwhatyouplease, or Hand Jive; which are the 5.8 standards in my opinion. I would definitely not call this PG13, you can get gear in any where you want and the falls would be clean. Some loose jug hold around the middle of P1, but can be bypassed by sinker jams.
By Arthur Cammers
From: Lexington, KY
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

String pitches 1 and 2 together as one; 60 m rope will do; there is no rope drag issue. There is no need to break these up as two pitches. Rap off anchors to the left at top of pitch 2. The climbing in the first 20 m is great for the grade!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A very good 1st pitch. Make sure your gear is solid at the start cause its steeper and pumpier than it looks.