|Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Old-school adventure climbing at its best--and not your typical outing at Sespe Gorge.
Those who don't mind the extra lichen and who aren't afraid of tricky gear will be richly rewarded by this route. The climbing is a big step up physically and psychologically from Ending Crack.
The route follows a single crack system that climbs nearly straight up the wall past several small trees.
On the far right side of the Black Wall is a large, broken pillar that lays against the main face. About ten feet right of this pillar is a thin crack that runs straight upward past several small trees (including a 10-foot tall tree that is almost level with the top of the pillar).
To access the start of the route, first identify the gaping 4th-class gully that marks the end of the wall on the right hand side. From the creek, scramble directly up to the base of the gully. Traverse along a narrow ledge to the left to the base of the crack.
Descend Bee Line by rappelling the route with 2 ropes (2 raps are required from trees). There is a sling wad that incorporates two pitons and several small trees about mid-height on the wall. It is apparently also possible to descend the gaping, 4th-class gully to the right of the route.
tiny to 4" (double TCUs recommended), a few small trees. A dozen, or so, home-made pitons add extra character.
Sorry...not the best picture of the first pitch of...
Romain nears the top of the second pitch of Bee Li...
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 24, 2008
Mannnnn... that thing could use a shave! It would probably see some more love if you gave it more love.. Like a wire brush.
Jun 1, 2009
The first pitch, up to the rap station, is fairly clean and the rock is pretty good. the second pitch needs a good scrub, but the rock is solid. it looks like many parties just climb the first pitch and lower off. The route can also be climbed in one long 65 m pitch.
|By Richard Shore|
Feb 13, 2011
a fun line, but it is dirty. More of a mental workout than anything. The first 20 feet is like climbing on a vertical jungle. Dont be afraid to use your nut-tool to excavate moss/dirt from the crack to find good pro. The old, manky pitons are welcome up top as no other gear is readily available (micro nuts maybe?). The upper section looked rotten, and gear was scant. We rapped from the tree/pin anchor to the base with a single 70m.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 6, 2012
Climbed this route again today and had a great time! No move felt harder than 5.6, but the route is fairly sustained for the grade and many sections feel insecure due to the lichen. Half way up the second pitch we moved 8 feet right and followed a parallel crack up to a large pine tree. This right-hand crack appeared to offer much better gear options.
We did a 150 foot rappel from trees high on the wall and then a second 120 rappel from the mid-station.