I would like to start with a thanks to everyone involved in my rescue, and to any climbers out there who are taking the time to read my account in an attempt to understand what happened that day.
On the afternoon of 8/10/2010 a group of 5 entered the hairpin climbing area. The group consisted of 3 climbers, a woman (my girlfriend) and an infant (our son 15 mos.)
Afrer a couple of bouldering problems, the 3 climbers (myself, and two friends, Jim and Nick) agreed that they would climb the route "Resume Builder" (5.8). We chose this route for both its rating, but also the close proximity to the anchors of "Unemployment Line" (5.8). The plan was simple, I would lead the pitch, rig the anchor as if we were climbing past (as in a milti pitch sport climb)and tie in. The point of this was to demonstrate to the climber who was to follow the pitch (Nick) our typical climbing setup. Then while he (Nick) was anchored on "Unemployment Line" he would have the oppertunity to observe how we cleaned the route, rigged the rappell, watch Jim rapp. off, I would then rig Nicks ATC for a rappell, and he could rap off with the bennifits of a more experianced climber setting him up, and a more experianced climber below acting as a firemans belay.
After leading the pitch, and tieing in (with no sign of bees)I was followed up, and in turn Nick was followed by Jim. At this point things were going as planned. All three of us were safely at the anchors and discussing diffrent elements of the rigging. Still no apparent sign of bees.
About 2 min. into our discussion was the first sign of bees. It started with no warning. We were under attack. Things get a little hazy at this point, Im sure due to the stress of the situation and the urgency of the situation. Our best bet at this point was to retreat in reverse order (Jim, Nick, Myself). I REMIND YOU THAT AT THIS POINT WE ARE UNDER ATTACK.
We began our retreat with me lowering Jim, via. an ATC to the base of the climb. I then rigged a single line rapp. for Nick and as well as I could, reminded him of what we had taught him of rappelling up to that point. Never let go of the brake! That was it. Through some miracle both of my partners made the deck without injury, save for the bee stings. All in all up to this point is about 5 min from the start of the attack. I am now the only climber still on the wall, but now the bees are swarming all of us, my girlfriend and child included.
My girlfriend was now in contact with EMS dispatch, and fleeing the bees with our son in her arms, Nick had been extensively stung (arround 400 times) and Jim came to the base of the climb to asist in my retreat.
My first option was to rappell off in the same way that Nick had, but by now the effects of the attack were apparent. I was having trouble using my hands to set my ATC, and once I had this accomplished
I could not untie the figure 8 knot tied through my harness. My eyes were near swolen shut, and I was still being attacked. In my opinion I was phisically incapacitated by the attack to a point that a fatal mistake in rigging was immanent, so I made the desition and instructed Jim to leave me there and bring help.
The subsiquent rescue is but a hazy memory at this time, and thus the topic of another forum. All in all Jim was stung arround 100 times, Nick was stung 400+ times, my son was stung twice (luckly with no reaction) and I was stung upwards of 1500 times. We are all alive and recovering, and look foreward to climbing again soon. Thanks again to ALL involved in my rescue. I cant thank you all enough. I hope this forum will shed some light on what happened that day, and although I expect that some of you out there may not agree with my practices that day, but that is also the realm of another forum. I appriciate any and all feedback, out of respect for my family, lets keep the negative feedback to private messages (which I will do my best to accept and reply as respectfully as possible. I.E. If you feel the need to tell me that Im a dumbass, send me a message. Thanks for reading.
-Mackley
Me upon my arival at St. Josephs hospital 8/10/2010.