Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Dreaming, The 
Bedtime Story 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled 
Bobsled, The 
Caffeine Buzz 
Chore Boy 
Daily Grind, The 
Golden Slumber 
Lucky Strikes 
Mr. Sandman 
My Buddy 
Not So Obscure 
Sleepless Child 
Sleepless in Boulder 
Smell the Coffee 
Snooze Button 
Something Obscure 
Tooth Fairy 
Wake Up Call 
War On Freedom 

Bedtime Story 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, Richard Aschert, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 5, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route starts on the far left (west) side of Plotinus Wall. Scramble up the gully to a short bolted wall. Just left of a handsize crack in a steep wall follow a line of bolts over a bulge. Gain the slab and climb past several bolts on good rock. Reach a ledge and follow bolts over a steep section into a short corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and the anchor on the left. Excellent route with great protection.


    Eleven bolts to a two-bolt anchor

    Photos of Bedtime Story Slideshow Add Photo
    Bedtime Story, Plotinus Wall
    BETA PHOTO: Bedtime Story, Plotinus Wall
    Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    Comments on Bedtime Story Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Frances Fierst
    From: Manila, Philippines
    Oct 29, 2003

    I agree with Roger on this one. The gully is a pain, but it is a nice route. I found the crux to be getting to the third bolt. Maybe I missed something (or I'm short), but I ended up clipping off a crimp.

    This is a route where it is better to bring your second up. The view is great! It was much nicer to belay from the large ledge, rather than lowering and belaying in the gully

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Apr 20, 2007

    A fun route. If you brought gear it is best to belay on the ledge behind the gully. If you did not bring gear this is not an option as a fall would pull the belayer off and into the gully.

    By Brad Schildt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 3, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Gear is really not needed for the belay. Simply clip the first bolt with a long piece of webbing for your belayer. On a breezy day, there is no wind in the gully, which makes for a very pleasant belay with an alpine feel to it.