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Bedtime Story 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, Richard Aschert, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 5, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route starts on the far left (west) side of Plotinus Wall. Scramble up the gully to a short bolted wall. Just left of a handsize crack in a steep wall follow a line of bolts over a bulge. Gain the slab and climb past several bolts on good rock. Reach a ledge and follow bolts over a steep section into a short corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and the anchor on the left. Excellent route with great protection.


    Protection 

    Eleven bolts to a two-bolt anchor



    Photos of Bedtime Story Slideshow Add Photo
    Bedtime Story, Plotinus Wall
    BETA PHOTO: Bedtime Story, Plotinus Wall
    Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    Comments on Bedtime Story Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Frances Fierst
    Administrator
    From: Manila, Philippines
    Oct 29, 2003

    I agree with Roger on this one. The gully is a pain, but it is a nice route. I found the crux to be getting to the third bolt. Maybe I missed something (or I'm short), but I ended up clipping off a crimp.

    This is a route where it is better to bring your second up. The view is great! It was much nicer to belay from the large ledge, rather than lowering and belaying in the gully

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Apr 20, 2007

    A fun route. If you brought gear it is best to belay on the ledge behind the gully. If you did not bring gear this is not an option as a fall would pull the belayer off and into the gully.

    By Brad Schildt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 3, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Gear is really not needed for the belay. Simply clip the first bolt with a long piece of webbing for your belayer. On a breezy day, there is no wind in the gully, which makes for a very pleasant belay with an alpine feel to it.