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Fortress Wall
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Bedtime for Bonzo 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: G. Robinson, M Hackworth, 1983
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 5,133
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006

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Randy Childers heads up the upper part of the uppe...

Description 

A great route normally done as 2 short pitches. Climb a left-angling flake to a big ledge with a huge block on it. Belay here to avoid a bad line with your rope, even though you are not yet more than 50' up. Walk right to a second crack in the wall which ascends up and right on hand jams (crux) and horizontal holds through a steep section headed out right towards an arete. Finish on face moves to reach the top. Belay & rap from bolt anchors.

Location 

Around to the far left of Fortress wall and around the left side of the amphitheatre, to the West face. Go along this face for perhaps 50 yards to reach a left-angling flake to a ledge- the beginning of Bedtime for Bonzo.

Protection 

A standard light rack.


Photos of Bedtime for Bonzo Slideshow Add Photo
Viewed from below Out of My Way.
Viewed from below Out of My Way.
Top of the 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Top of the 2nd pitch.
Andrew Baldwin stuck in the gap before the second pitch. Oliver Hill in background.
Andrew Baldwin stuck in the gap before the second ...
Up top Bedtime on a very chilly fall day.
Up top Bedtime on a very chilly fall day.

Comments on Bedtime for Bonzo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 16, 2014
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 2, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great route, I had a great time on it.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 14, 2007

A good route with good sections, but it always felt too wandering and the pitches were too short to call classic. The best part is the jamming on pitch #2 (all 20' of it, if that) out to the right of the ledge, as the position and rock are truly good.
By Adam Steel
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 7, 2007

This route was overhyped for me and has the same reputation among others I've talked to. It has a short section at the end that is striking, but it's so short you almost don't notice. I don't think it's the classic line everyone makes it out to be. Even so, the fact that it's a two pitch 5.6 in the Red makes for good multi-pitch practice for beginner climbers.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 15, 2007

cool finish, liked the exposure
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Short pitches, but an excellent route with nice exposure. Save a #3 Camalot or equivalent for the angling crack on P2.
By Unboundquark
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a fun route.

3 stars for the view from the top, the fun factor, and the novelty of the hallway area.

I felt if was a touch more difficult than many of the other 5.7's I've led at RRG so I gave it a "+".

Good pro.
By ziggy
Nov 18, 2009

i put my wife on the first pitch of this thing as an easy first trad lead. she had difficulty and when I tried it I could see why. I think the guidebook rates the 1st pitch as a 5.4, and I would say it is stiff for the grade. Not to nit-pick such an easy route, just make sure you don't get in over your head. The crux is getting over the first little bulge.
By BCA
From: michigan
Jun 15, 2010

good route with nice exposure on the second pitch. i have climbed this twice, and the second time i did my first trad lead on the first pitch. it took pro easily, and has good stances. i like the little chimney doorway up to the second pitch, and the second pitch is a bit stiffer than a 5.6, in my opinion. one rap from the bolted anchors will do with rope to spare. this is a fun one.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route can get very snow-covered in winter.
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route with short pitches, great pro (you will love your #3), and exposure.
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014

We rapped with 70 meter rope no problem