Ascend steep face climbing past bolts, then follow a steep thin crack up to another bolt and the anchor. This route used to be 5.12c, but over time holds have broken off making it much harder.
See the comment below.
Left of Gorilla Crack, this finger crack is easy to spot.
Bolts & gear for the crack.
|By Christopher Barlow|
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Tim K. and I worked and re-redpointed this thing a few days ago. It is still a very good pitch - maybe one of the better ones at East Animas. While a good bit harder than .12c now, most of the route is rather moderate (5.11 or easier) with excellent face climbing and stemming to a really nice finger crack to a boulder problem at the top. In addition to about 12-14 quickdraws (with a couple of slings), bring a few large stoppers (BD #10-11) for the finger crack. The hardest moves are just above one of these bomber stoppers at the top of the crack. One could put in a yellow Alien type piece above the last bolt, but if you've made it that far . . . .