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 ADVANCED
Wall of Winter Warmth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpha-Bob 
Angle of Repose 
Bed Hog 
Closed Open Space 
Direct Cop Out 
Escutcheon 
Leader of the Pack 
Left Side 
Mini Moe 
Mordor 
On The Bough 
Prisoner, The 
Regular Route [WWW] 
Slit, The 
Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The 

Bed Hog 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Adams / Hong / Burke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,577
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 26, 2003
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  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Bed Hog is located on the steep south face of The Wall of Winter Warmth. It is the bolted route just right of The Prisoner. Solo up to base (5-3) and look for four bolts and an anchor. BH and The Prisoner share the same start. Climb a thin crack (5-ll) up to a bolt out right. A solid orange TCU can be placed between bolt two and three. Power up for a reachy punch to a good flat edge. Three stars for position.


    Protection 

    Small wire, TCUs up to orange and quick draws.



    Comments on Bed Hog Add Comment
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    By Pinklebear
    Dec 2, 2012
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

    Killer route, big headwall looming over the canyon, hard boulder-problem crux. If you want to bring a pared-down rack, we had:

    •For belay at base, Metolius red, big stopper, Metolius green (black would work OK, too)
    •To get to first bolt: Metolius yellow, then black, then orange
    •Metolius orange between second and third bolts.

    Good eye on the FA!

    By Chris Weidner
    Dec 2, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

    Amazing climb.
    The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class.
    In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm.
    Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!