|Wall of Winter Warmth
Bed Hog is located on the steep south face of The Wall of Winter Warmth. It is the bolted route just right of The Prisoner. Solo up to base (5-3) and look for four bolts and an anchor. BH and The Prisoner share the same start. Climb a thin crack (5-ll) up to a bolt out right. A solid orange TCU can be placed between bolt two and three. Power up for a reachy punch to a good flat edge. Three stars for position.
Small wire, TCUs up to orange and quick draws.
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
Killer route, big headwall looming over the canyon, hard boulder-problem crux. If you want to bring a pared-down rack, we had:
•For belay at base, Metolius red, big stopper, Metolius green (black would work OK, too)
•To get to first bolt: Metolius yellow, then black, then orange
•Metolius orange between second and third bolts.
Good eye on the FA!
|By Chris Weidner|
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class.
In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm.
Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!