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Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
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Bed And Breakfast 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Jared Hostetter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Apr 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Jon above the bulge at the single bolt.

Description 

Pull up on great jugs and traverse right to a clean, incipient crack in a bulge, load up (curved stopper, green Alien, RPs) and pull through to stand up and clip a bolt. Continue up the slab above with good gear to the chains.


Location 

This is on the Northwest face behind a large pine tree growing close to the wall.


Protection 

Stoppers, small wires, Aliens, #0.5 through double 1 & 2 Camalots, one bolt, anchor bolts with chains.



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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice addition to the crag. Slippery lichen aside (will clean off with more use) this new line seemed no harder than 5.8 and takes a variety of trad gear. A #1 and #2 cam plus a green Alien will protect this, but so will a number of stopper, hex, and tri-cam options in horizontal cracks both below and above the single bolt. From the ground, it's hard to see the single bolt about 20 ft up (above the bulge).

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
May 15, 2012

5.8 sounds good to me. I thought it felt like a .9, but it's always harder when you're climbing through the lichen and munge on the FA. Jared gave it a good brushing down when we finished, so I'm not too surprised it goes easier.