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Beckey's Wall Area
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Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
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Orange Sling, The T 
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Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
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Sweet Jane Variation T 
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Tingey's Torture T 

Beckey's Wall 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey and Roslyn Stewart '61
Page Views: 19,823
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 2, 2004

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Fred Beckey at 82.

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.

P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)
P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)

From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground. Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay and a tree. Then a down climb must be done to get to the Five Fingers rappel, then doing a one rope rappel.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Mostly smaller stuff, but I placed up to a #3 camalot.

History 

This is [part of] a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.

"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."

—James Garrett


Photos of Beckey's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
FB...after chopper enhancement
FB...after chopper enhancement
Maura climbing Becky's Wall.
Maura climbing Becky's Wall.
View of some of the first and all the of 2nd pitch...
View of some of the first and all the of 2nd pitch...
Trinity (at the obvious photo op for every Beckeys...
Trinity (at the obvious photo op for every Beckeys...
Chris Upham moving up to the flake.
Chris Upham moving up to the flake.
Looking down from the P2 anchor to the P1 anchor.
Looking down from the P2 anchor to the P1 anchor.
Beckey's Wall w/ traverse to Pebbles and Bambam fr...
BETA PHOTO: Beckey's Wall w/ traverse to Pebbles and Bambam fr...
Leslie Hamilton finishing the second pitch of Beck...
Leslie Hamilton finishing the second pitch of Beck...
Sharon Vinick enjoying the steep upper headwall.
Sharon Vinick enjoying the steep upper headwall.
Anthony Burgess leading Becky's
Anthony Burgess leading Becky's
Sharon Vinick at the top of the headwall.
Sharon Vinick at the top of the headwall.
Beckey's Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Beckey's Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Brandon Caldwell Leading Up Becky's Wall in 2009 o...
Brandon Caldwell Leading Up Becky's Wall in 2009 o...
Almost to the second pitch anchors
Almost to the second pitch anchors
The goods.
The goods.

Comments on Beckey's Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2013
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 2, 2004

The second pitch of this climb is so good that you shouldn't ruin good vibes by climbing the lame last pitch which also forces you to down climb in a frustrating attempt to gain the five fingers rappel. Rap after the second pitch and stay happy! Normally I am against just climbing the 'fun' pitches of a route, not finishing it, and then claiming you climbed the route... but in this case don't feel bad, rap.
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 2, 2004

Agreed. I rapped after pitch 2 as well. Otherwise, it would be a bit of a hoof to get back to the gear at the base of the climb. Also, route quality looks like it diminishes.
By Vince Romney
May 11, 2004

One of my first routes (c1980) and I still enjoy it! If you remember a few months back it made the back-page spread for AAJ accidents in Rock and Ice (or was it Climbing) when a climber clipped one of the manky pins at the top part of Pitch 2, fell, pulled the pin and smacked the dihedral below. New leaders should stay alert to the potential pancake... and as always, view pins with suspicion.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 27, 2004

Wasn't the accident report in relation to Perhaps? Perhaps I am wrong... (sorry I couldn't resist...) either way, still a good reminder to back up pins if you are able.
By Vince Romney
Jun 9, 2004

Well John, there's proof that the mind goes with old age. I looked through my Rock and Ice archives and it was indeed Perhaps... I wonder when I'll start needing Depends?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 9, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is best done in one pitch to the second rap anchor - you reach easily with a 60 meter rope and there is no drag. This is my new favorite pitch in LCC.
By Leroy Fielding
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Also watch out for a fat, sneaky squirrel that knows how to open zippers!!! I lost 3 clif bars to this little @#$%! He waited until my second was 20 feet of the ground, then went straight for the packs.... Fantastic route regardless.
By Harvey Miller
Aug 3, 2004

Others are not joking about the fat, sneaky squirrel that hangs out at the base of this climb. It has figured out how to open zippers! I am not kidding. I lost a Cliff bar and it nibbled through a plastic bag in my partner's pack..
By Paul McCurdie
Aug 18, 2004

Submitted By:Paul McCurdieOn:8.16.2004

I was climbing on Beckey's on 8 July. My partner led the route, was the second. When I got to the second set of anchors, I started to set up the rappel. There two new 1/2" anchors, and an old 1/4" guy. The nut on the left anchor - when facing the anchors - was loose. I tightened it as much as I could by hand. If you are climbing it in the next while, take a wrench, if you don't have a wrench, be careful and check it.
By Steve Allison
Sep 28, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed to the second chain set then scrambled up to the 5.4 portion of Beckey's Wall and immediately traversed to the right to the bottom of Pebbles and Bambam (5.9). There are five bolts and double chain at the top. Great View! Rap down to the tree - walk left to Beckey's 2nd chain. Rap to bottom from there w/ 60 m rope. What a great climb! I wondered what got into my pack and ate a hole in my Cliff Bar! See photo for route.
By Nathan Fisher
Feb 26, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Finally got off my fat wintering butt, and climbed this today. What was I waiting for? Other than the greasiness this climb was great. But of course the greasiness goes hand in hand with greatness. I didn't actually do the last pitch as we went right onto the bolted slab.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jul 11, 2005

This is sweet route. I'm just starting on trad, and that second pitch was definitely the steepest thing I've lead, I was so stoked when I topped out on it. We also rapped from the 2nd set of anchors to avoid the walk-off.

That squirrel is outrageous! I saw the thing as I was belaying my second up the first pitch and thought it was a raccoon! I returned to find all the stuff in the top pouch of my pack (which I coould have sworn the zipper was closed on...) spread around. Found the wrapper for my clifbar in the bushes nearby. It also gnawed apart the case of my leatherman! Consider hanging packs from a tree or something, that thing is living the easy life up there.
By vincent pierce
Sep 13, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As good a 5.7 as you will ever find. Routes of this grade are rarely this steep but those holds up high are soooo good.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

one of my favorite full moon runs. figer tip variation is excellent also.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 30, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If one decides to do the 3rd 5.4 pitch, gain the ledge with the tree and walk right to the chains of Pebbles and Bambam. This will eliminate the need for a walk-off. You can now rap down to the midway belay station, then rap to the top of Beckey's, and 2 more to the ground.

With that said the 5.4 pitch is just that...5.4. However, this is the funny part, my partner felt the 5.4 on Beckey's 3rd pitch was easier than the greasy approach crack to the Dihedrals. You know....the 4th class scramble. I would agree.
By Lee Gitlin
Aug 31, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P1 is fairly short and low angled, although the hand jams seemed shallower than they appear at first glance. Great feet, though, provided you get then into the crack.

P2 makes the climb. Steep, but better hand holds, especially the bomber flakes just below topping out. Great rests, great canyon views ... don't miss this LCC classic.

P3 is probably not worth doing, unless you have an obsessive-complusive need for completion. Kind of lessens the climb, actually.

The route is sun exposed and radiates heat. Bring plenty of liquid and sunscreen. Then, clean your hands before you shove them into that crack!
By Aaron Lowry
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2007

I climbed this today (9/3/07) and found a bunch of left gear and a pair of eyeglasses at the bottom of the route. It looked as if somebody may have fallen, and abandoned their gear to quickly get medical attention. I can't think of any other reason to leave it behind.
Anyway, let me know what you lost and I'll be sure to get it back to you. Go ahead and shoot me an email at aaronlowry@gmail.com
By James Garrett
Nov 21, 2007

So, it has been documented before, but it seems the urban (mountain) legend goes on that this was climbed by Beckey and Kor. I realise that it has been thus recorded in every Guidebook that has been published since that time.
I have spoken to Fred a number of times about it. Rosylyn Stewart was his partner and he was hoping to impress her with a first ascent hoping maybe that it would lead to other adventures even more to his taste. I think it did.
Kor never climbed on Beckey's Wall with Fred. Hopefully, this urban legend will be corrected in future guidebooks....even like this one!
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
May 8, 2008

finally got on this earlier this week, only did the first 2 pitches and it was great. good for beginning leaders.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jul 1, 2008

The second pitch was all the fun. I just had to climb it because of the history and popularity. We did the Pebbles and Bam Bam finish. Which I recommend if you like slab climbing.
By demian
Nov 1, 2008

Great route! Next time I'll sew 1 and 2 together, I was hesitant without knowledge of the gear. A standard rack and a couple extra #2 ish cams is perfect to top out to the second anchor. We did the 3rd because Pebbles and BamBam looked run out. We TR'd Pebbles after and realized that the route does break left and what looked like runout was actually fine. Rapped w/ twin 60m rotes from Pebbles to top of 2nd and again to the deck. Fun for the whole family!
By cragsavvy
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010

Excellent route! We placed a red tri cam in July of 2010 on the second pitch, and unfortunately it was left a causality. It was pretty welded, but someone may have gotten it out. Otherwise, clip it and move on, it's a bomber piece! We did this in 2 pitches with a 60 meter rope. When the climb goes dead vertical it gets really fun with a good crack for gear and some awkward moves. Belay at chains. Highly recommend. Standard rack, bigger pieces for the top part.
By Brandon Caldwell
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb but be careful after rain as the second pitch up to the chains gets really wet and can be a bit sketchy.
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Nov 28, 2010

Clip the old pin above pitch #1 chains for nostalgia.
By Andrewprime1
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did this climb a few days ago on my birthday. It was a super fun, ultra classic climb. I would definitely climb the first two pitches. The third looked like a bit of a scramble, so we decided to skip it. There is still a bong bong half way up the second pitch that was solid!
By Ryan202
From: West Jordan, UT
May 8, 2012

Great climb! My first trad lead. P1 is super short. We just linked P1 and P2 together. Was a party of 3...the belay station at the top of P2 was cramped, but was super fun just to hang out on a vertical face. Great views with the sun setting. Biggest cam I used was a #1, there are places for a 2 and maybe a 3 towards the end of P2.
By Nate Flink
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 27, 2012

Climbed this route yesterday, to the anchors of the second pitch, and was able to rap to almost make it to the base with a 70m rope with rope stretch, with about 8' of easy moves of down climbing. Tie knots at ends of rope.
By Dana Hawlish
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
May 4, 2013

Found some gear at the base of the climb yesterday (5/3/13). ID it and i'll send it back to you.
By Pixtonian
From: Salt lake city, Utah
Aug 7, 2013

watch out for the bee hive at the end of the second pitch. If you go left you may run into them. I don't know why you would go left but my buddy did and he got stung. It made for some good humor. Last week.
By ARMoss
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not that you'd necessarily want to, but you can tie all three pitches together (with a good bit of drag) on a 70m line. Just barely reaches.
By max huecksteadt
From: Leavenworth, WA
Oct 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Heads up for wasps- there were plenty out today, although mild-mannered enough. The fun flakes and great stances on the second pitch made the climb, just link the two!
By James Garrett
Nov 9, 2013

nice little video of Fred if anyone is interested
Probably appeared on other sites as well…...

alpinfieber.net/fred-beckey-89...