Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Liberty Bell
Select Route:
Beckey Route (SW Face) T 
Freedom or Death T 
Freedom Rider T 
Girl Next Door, The T 
Liberty and Injustice for All T 
Liberty Crack T 
NW Face T 
Overexposure T 
Rapple Grapple T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Thin Red Line (Free Version) T 

Beckey Route (SW Face) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Jerry O'Neil, Charles Welsh 1946
Page Views: 15,314
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Opening moves on the first pitch. Nice Views

Description 

The Beckey route is a very moderate route to the spectacular summit of the Liberty Bell. The summit is the best part of the route, offering panoramic views of the peaks of the North Cascades, the Wine Spires, and the Early Winter Spires.

To reach the climb (~2.5mi), hike up the Blue Lake trail until it breaks into a small meadow and begins to curl east toward the lake. Branch off left on a climbers trail that ascends boulder strewn terrain to the base of the gully between Liberty Bell and Concord tower. Ascend the gully to the prominent notch between Liberty Bell and Concord. This gully is loose and unpleasant; be extremely careful of parties above and below you and wear a helmet if you are ascending beneath someone. After being in this gully once in late summer, I promised myself I wouldn't do it again unless it was full of snow.

The start of the Beckey route is about 30' below the notch. Look for a small ledge leading left and traverse it to the base of a blocky chimney. This is the start of the first pitch.

P1. Climb the chimney or the face to its left reaching a large ledge with a tree. 5.3

P2. Continue up the chimney for about 30m, climbing past chockstones and blocky slabs until reaching obvious 3rd/4th class terrain. I think this pitch is the hardest of the climb. Belay from a tree or from gear wherever you find it convenient. 5.5

P3. Ascend the 4th class terrain to a 6 foot finger-crack traverse past a large roof (climbing past a fixed pin) (5.5), then follow a dihedral back to the right and up onto the summit shoulder. Belay from a tree or from gear, use long slings and watch the rope drag.

P4. Shortly after leaving the belay on the ridge to the summit, you will encounter a slabby 5.6 boulder problem ~10' high. After surmounting this obstacle it is easy 3rd/4th class terrain to the summit. If you belay all of this, it will be more than one pitch to the top.

Descent: Downclimb the ridge and the 5.6 boulder problem. Below the boulder problem follow an obvious, tree filled gully down to the east until you encouter the first set of rappel bolts. From here it is possible to reach the ground in 2 single rope rappels. After the first rappel, scramble down and skier's right to reach a large ledge with another set of bolted anchors. We used a 60M rope, I can't say if a 50 would suffice.

Protection 

A single set of stoppers and cams to 2" will be more than enough. You may want an axe and/or crampons depending on snow conditions in the gully. Also: bug repellent.


Photos of Beckey Route (SW Face) Slideshow Add Photo
this goat is at the start of the route
this goat is at the start of the route
On the 2nd Chimney pitch.
On the 2nd Chimney pitch.
On the rappel into the notch.
On the rappel into the notch.
moving into the chimney system on the second pitch...
moving into the chimney system on the second pitch...
approaching the roof traverse on the third pitch
approaching the roof traverse on the third pitch
This shot shows the chimney system.  It's really f...
BETA PHOTO: This shot shows the chimney system. It's really f...
1st pitch
1st pitch
Near the first pitch of the Beckey Route. June 201...
Near the first pitch of the Beckey Route. June 201...
Kid near the base of the Becky route.
Kid near the base of the Becky route.
Climber on p.2 of the Beckey Route. Photo from Con...
BETA PHOTO: Climber on p.2 of the Beckey Route. Photo from Con...
Don't forget to take in the "small" view...
Don't forget to take in the "small" view...

Comments on Beckey Route (SW Face) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Aug 29, 2012

Watch out for goats kicking rocks down the approach gulley!
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

What's up with the grade inflation? The Becky Guide (1981, 1st edition) rates this as a 5.5 climb. That seemed about right when I did it in precam days 20+ years ago...

P1 - 5.2, P2 - 5.4 or 5.3, P3 - 5.5 and P4 - 5.0 to 5.5 (depending on one's height)
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 31, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Climbed this a couple of weeks ago and I really enjoyed it. the climbing is fine, but nothing really special, but the setting, scenery, views and location.....that's what make this route spectacular. It is probably closer to 5.5 than 5.6.
By Colin Chupik
Aug 12, 2014

Amazing route with great views and fun climbing. Descent: There is a rappel station above the gully that you can use to avoid the 5.6 downclimb. From the summit go back the way you came up but veer to the left (skiers left). Look for a groove in the rock you can climb down and you will see a couple slings wrapped around a tree. A 60 meter rope will make it down to the gully below. The next rappel station is towards skiers right in the gully on a ledge.