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Stephen Quale on Bebop Tango during a chilly Decem...
Unusual for J-tree: a steep juggy sport climb! It is located in a shady corridor so it could be either chilly or perfect, depending on the temps.
BETA PHOTO: The huecoed Solosby Face
Running laps on Bebop Tango (5.11a), Joshua Tree N...
Tim Fearn belayed by Mark Sundeen on Bebop Tango (...
Bebop Tango. April '06. Photo: Darin Limvere.
|By C Miller|
Mar 14, 2003
This climb did and should have 4 bolts. The extra bolt at the top is the result of an anchor at the lip being chopped, which is a pity as this is indeed a sport climb.
|By Tim Bui|
May 2, 2003
Really fun climb. Don't worry about the first bolt being so far up. I think it is only 5.6 or 5.7 up to it. The climb DOES have for bolts/hangers as of today. There are three old rusted bolts on top. One is without a hanger.
|By Steven Powers|
Jul 1, 2003
went out and did this yesterday, my first time out there this climb rules, there are actually only four bolts on the climb and we replaced the crappy anchors with some super bomber three eighth's and chains, when we pulled the three old bolts out two of them sheared of with three whacks from the piton and hammer and the other one when we pulled it out was bent all to hell, those were some horrible anchors, but no more now they are custom and every one should enjoy this climb, easy to top rope also.
Jul 2, 2003
Steven: Well Done! Thanks for replacing the old anchor.
Now, if I can only find my lycra...
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003
Regarding the approach: From the Nature Loop, walk SW towards a 50' tall overhanging orange colored boulder with a pinon pine at the base. Walk around to the right, aiming left of the "finger" on the skyline. Boulder hop up and left, towards another large boulder w/ a thin crack running through the roof. Shimmy through a cave at the base of this boulder, chimney down the other side, and you will be at the base of the overhanging and pocketed Solosby Face.
Regarding the route: Feels like Hueco Tanks in Joshua Tree! The bolts are spaced just far enough apart to keep you on your toes and it's not a bad idea to have a spot before clipping the first one. Thanks Stephen and company for replacing the old bolts!
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Jul 28, 2004
I remember back in '94, when our group was hanging with a couple of Euros who were not having the greatest time with runout slabs. I told them, "I think I have something in mind for you..." Yea, they loved it. Both of them led BT and LS a few times and were having such a fine afternoon with it, they bought me all the cheap beer and cigaretts I could handle.....Personally, I TR'd them several times (BT AND LS) before yoyoing my way up. Fun times on a fun, unique routes.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Dec 21, 2004
I think Bachar did the FA on this
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
May 31, 2009
The steep nature of this route makes for pumpy climbing. The start is not 5.6 or 5.7 as previously described. The start is certainly not the crux but does have your attention getting off the deck and a missed sequence is not fun. Once established in the large pockets reaching the first bolt is easy enough. If you don't like the fall factor you could bridge using the boulder behind you to clip the first bolt.
Reachy and powerful moves at the mid-way crux (bulge) as a 5'7" girl I either need more power or....more power. I hung.
In full disclosure we did the route on TR and I still hung. Even still, I feel comfortable with my grade assessment of 11a.
Conditions: Summer months - in the shade @ noon
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 5, 2009
This had the first dyno I ever did on lead, from the handrail to the pocket - and amazingly I stuck it!
|By Colin Brochard|
From: San Francisco
Jan 31, 2011
legit climb, I was a little two beat up and whiney from a few days of warm josh to fully enjoy it. The huecoy goodness at the bottom has to be some of the coolest granite sculpture around. Does anyone know any area's with similar uber huecoed varnish? even outside josh?