This is the crag across the river from Al Cap. It is in the shade all day long. It never gets too hot even on a hundred degree day, and is as secluded as it gets for somewhere that's 100 yards from the road.
From the Ra parking area 3.2 miles from Empire, walk 60 yards further west to see the crag. It rises out of the river facing north. It is easier to access by driving two parking lots further west at 3.6 miles. Park and walk back south and east, crossing the river at the west end of the crag.
This is the easiest line here with varied climbing and adequate protection. Climb up three bolts to a ledge where the fun begins; at the fifth bolt, tip toe left with a finishing sprint to the anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Access, be aware this is not across from Al-Cap, it's up a few hundred feet. You can park at a slight pull out directly across from the face on the same side of the highway. Walk down to what looks like a camping or picnic area until you reach the river. Look across at the rock face identify the anchors, be sure before you climb down and cross the river. Look for an obvious easy route to the river between rock cliffs. Cross the river with bare feet or Crocks.
The first climb, coming down river, on the far right, facing the crag or most right on the face. Very nice, thin holds, face climbing on varied crimpers and side pulls. Technical climbing, but really fun. In hot weather, this is a great rock, no road noise, but the river is running through you. 5.10c/d.
Next climb to left, slightly fewer holds and tiny crimps in crux. 5.10d or 5.11a.
Next climb to the left, very thin, with a bulge at top, technical climbing 5.11b/c.
Getting there: there is now a log bridge for easy access. Park in the lot described in the main description. Walk a few hundred feet down (south) and east (downstream) to reach the log bridge. It's a single log with hand ropes for balance. The wall is just a bit east (downstream) of the bridge. You'll approach the rightmost route first, so I've listed the routes R->L: Something Else, 5.11 Ambiance, 5.11 Go Juice, 5.11+ Routes Don't Grow On Trees, 5.10c/d PG-13 The Drill Has Gone, 5.11
There is supposedly a sixth route, but I sure didn't see a distinct sixth one. The leftmost two routes are past the end of the "beach" and you must hang from the belay anchors above the water to belay, except maybe later in the summer. It's a great spot--nice, cool, pleasant, right next to the water, and easy to get to. The routes are good (except "Routes Don't Grow on Trees") though still a bit dirty. Some are a bit sporty.