This seldom climbed splitter squeeze is a true test piece for the modern day crack climber. Beauty has been described as one of the harder free climbs of the Herbst era and is quite strenuous and very run out. This climb is committing to the core, and will have you questioning your sanity, among other things of questionable importance.
On this route you will encounter an offwidth crack that leads to a tight squeeze chimney which gradually widens. Be prepared to clip an ancient bolt in a questionable spot that will probably hold just long enough to flip you upside down. Shortly after place a Big Bro and run it out for 20+ feet of great squeeze climbing. Once at the top kiss and lower off a slung tree with a 70m only.
The obvious most central crack at The Triad.
#5 and #6 cam, #4 and #5 Bro, a small/medium nut or two, prayer book of choice, and a helmet for the belayer (recommended).
Mar 2, 2012
Nice work, hoss. That looks cool. You'll have fun at the Blood Wall, too.
|By Isaac T.|
From: Rockville, MD
Mar 5, 2012
A fine write up regarding this climb can be found here