Beauty  5.10c R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Joe Herbst, John Byrd Season:  All Submitted By:  Matt Kuehl on Feb 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Matt Kuehl summons his inner Joe Herbst as he star...

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Description 

This seldom climbed splitter squeeze is a true test piece for the modern day crack climber. Beauty has been described as one of the harder free climbs of the Herbst era and is quite strenuous and very run out. This climb is committing to the core, and will have you questioning your sanity, among other things of questionable importance.

On this route you will encounter an offwidth crack that leads to a tight squeeze chimney which gradually widens. Be prepared to clip an ancient bolt in a questionable spot that will probably hold just long enough to flip you upside down. Shortly after place a Big Bro and run it out for 20+ feet of great squeeze climbing. Once at the top kiss and lower off a slung tree with a 70m only.

Location 

The obvious most central crack at The Triad.

Protection 

#5 BD, #6 BD, #4 Bro, #5 Bro, a small nut or two, prayer book of choice, and a helmet for the belayer (recommended).