Beauty 5.11b
| 705 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | James Garrett and Dominic Hari (from the Bernese Oberland) 22 June 2011 FFA: Quino Gonzales and JG, 4 July 2011 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, and Fall |
| Submitted By: | James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011 |
| |
During FA of Beauty
Add Photo  Printer View
Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Either climb the first pitch of Beast or after crossing the 2nd class grassy ledge, start 5m to the west (left) of the upper pitches (P2-P5) of Beast. Uniquely adventuresome and exhilarating climbing.
Pitch #1: Starts at the lowest toes of the Beast. Climb a long and fun pitch past 8 bolts and good placements to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.
Scramble up and left to the rock just to the east (right) of a prominent roof. 30m.
Pitch #2: Ascend the spur featuring scoops and swirls of colorful rock landscape past 4 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 35m
Pitch #3: Surge straight up beautiful rock through some surrealistic bulges, wondrous placements, and 3 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10a, 30m.
Pitch #4: Battle the Beast up a steep overlapping white quartz-like stripe past 6 bolts to a right facing dihedral under the roof which leads to a three-bolt belay. 5.11b, 25m.
3rd class through a fun knobby roof to a two-bolt belay at the top of the crag. Enjoy the views to the valley and upper Bells. 20m.
Location Shares same first pitch with Beast. Although rappelling the route is possible, the walk off north to the western descent gully seems most prudent.
Protection QDs and set of C3s and Camalots to #2. Set of Nuts.
Extra 0.4 to 0.5 optional.
Nutcraft and gear placement skills are necessary, but opportunities are abundant.
Looking down pitch 2 on Beauty
|
Pitch 3
| |
By Quino Gonzalez
Jul 12, 2011
| This is an excellent new route. James did a great job at finding the line, visualizing the route, cleaning it as well as the access to it, and even cleaning a descend trail. The first three pitches are very engaging and have a distinct alpine flavor. The protection can be a little challenging if your head is not into it but there are bolts where you most need them. The fourth pitch has a well protected crux that could easily become a Wasatch classic. But it is the 4 pitches, plus the location, that make this route a short alpine line worth trying. I had a lot of fun on it. I highly recommend it. |
By ddriver
From: SLC
Aug 27, 2012
| Damn good stuff. Not a sport climb.
BTW, pitch 3 has 3 bolts, thankfully, as the gear gets a bit natty up there. |
|
RSS Feed
12 more...
Slideshow
