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Beauty and the Beast S 
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Beauty and the Beast 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Cecil, Justin Day, Brian Cornwell
Page Views: 365
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Mar 2, 2011

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View of P3, leader at top.

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two.

P1 - Start with a couple of fun, overhanging moves out the left side of the cave, then easier climbing on sharp rock up the buttress. This is also the first pitch of "The Wave." There are two anchors at the top of P1... "Beauty" is on the right and "The Wave" is on the left.

P2 - Go up and sightly right - don't be lured by other bolts going further right.

P3 - This pitch is fun and follows bolts up into a small ledge at a small cave. Don't stop there though. From the top, traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, then finish up on the last 2 pitches of "The Wave." This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun.

+++In 2006, Drew Spaulding and Adam Weiner established a 4th pitch above the "Beauty" pitch, but is not well equipped with out TRAD. gear. Climb up into the corner on gear, threads and a few bolts. Then tunnel up right and under the stalactite umbrella up to the bolted anchor (this pitch needs re-bolting). A wild ride!

Location 

This route is located on an obvious prow of limestone that starts just a few feet from the path (I think it's a road now). Look for a fixed line running down the hill underneath the power lines. Scramble up a few feet and you're at the mouth of the "bouldering cave." The route starts with a few steep moves right above the cave.

Protection 

4 pitches to the right of The Wave


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By Livia
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 18, 2008

Getting off P3 can be a bit of a pain but it was definitely the most fun pitch of the route. P1 isn't that sharp if you are used to the limestone at Shelf Road, CO