Start with about 10 feet of face climbing to get to a tight, right-facing corner in great looking dark rock.
Located on the right side of the wall. It is the next route to the right of Double Trouble.
#.3 - #.5 Camalots.
moving on up !
a wiper ... soft
|Comments on Beauty and the Beast
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 1, 2008
The vague gear description makes me think the poster of this route has not actually been on the route. Just did this route today. Seemed pretty reasonable for the grade, but my fingers fit well. Big fingers would make this route real tough. For me, an ideal rack would include 3 blue metolius/green alien, 6 yellow metolius, 1-2 #0.5 Camelot. Nothing larger will fit. Keep you eyes out on both sides of the crack for stems. High quality rock but short. 3 out of 5 stars.
|By Jason S.|
From: Durango, Co
Aug 31, 2011
I agree, in camalots: maybe one .5, lots of .4's and a .3 or two for the top will make you feel nice. Also maybe one thinner piece for the start. Great route, especially if your fingers are a little small for good locks on Flight Time. Also the anchors could use a couple chains, the webbing nest up there is a little scary.
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
great little route with ultra-sticky fingers. bloom's latest recommends (7) .4 camalots and (2) .3 camalots. i actually used more .3's than .4's - maybe (6) .3 and (4) .4 or so. this would be a good first 12 at the creek - not too long, fairly straight forward, lots of fun.