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 ADVANCED
Parking Lot Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beauty and the Beast T 
Funky Bolt T 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 
Stress Fracture T 
Tow Away Zone T 

Beauty and the Beast 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bingham, Sterret
Page Views: 1,658
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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At the bolt...

Description 

This fun mixed route is located on the east side of Parking Lot Rock. It starts 15 ft to the right of Just Another Pretty Face.

Head up the flared left facing dihedral, place an RP, and pull on to the face. Load up on small nuts in the crack, and slab it to the only bolt. The moves left to the hand crack our the crux. The hand crack above is 5.8. End at the bolt anchor to the left or continue to the anchors on Funky bolt.

Protection 

nuts, TCU's, and a few hand size cams


Photos of Beauty and the Beast Slideshow Add Photo
Tried starting up the flared groove and quickly decided that, for me, 5.11 friction is easier than 5.8/5.9 groveling.  Seems more civilized to clip the first bolt of Spuds and head left.
Tried starting up the flared groove and quickly de...

Comments on Beauty and the Beast Add Comment
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By James Naus
Aug 12, 2004

You can also place a #4 camalot in the starting flare. Also place 2 good med. stoppers where the crack ends at the roof, because it is a long way to the bolt.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I loved this lead, as it had a bit of everything. Nice flaring offwidth to start, followed by an easy face/crack sequence, followed by a bouldery move. Then some tenuous friction and an easy hand crack. If your seconding climber falls after un-clipping the bolt, they will swing and they will fall off the line and have a hard time getting back on line. No way to avoid this, just beware.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007

Starting flare is more awkward than hard. Once you get established it's pretty easy to move up. Fun route, nice variety with easy hand crack at the top. We stopped short and used the chain anchors to the right for a TR and easy access down.

.5 TCU, 1 & 2" cams
By Brice W
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This felt easier to me than Tow Away Zone. You can also head left at the top easily to get to the JAPF anchors.