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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Waltzing Witches
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All in Good Time S 
Beautiful Wickedness S 
How 'Bout a Little Fire? S 
I'd Turn Back If I Were You S 
I'm Melting S 
People Do Go Both Ways S 
Somewhere S 
Talk Me Out Of It S 
That's You All Over S 
What a World S 

Beautiful Wickedness 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 901
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

One guidebook rates this 5.9+ but it is considerably harder than the other climbs of that grade on this wall. I found it harder and more sustained than We Wish to Welcome You (.10b) around the other side. Hard start, tricky second clip, crux is slightly overhanging section up high.

Location 

Third climb from the right end of Wall of Waltzing Witches.

Protection 

Bolts & chains.


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By jbak
Aug 14, 2006

I haven't climbed at this low angle much recently, but this route seemed solid 5.10 to me.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

cool moves up top!
By Eric Sophiea
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The bottom two thirds is challenging, technical and delicate with marginal feet and is pretty sustained. There's a relatively defined sequence for much of the lower half, which is rare at this grade. Top third is much easier climbing until the final move getting to the anchors, which is maybe 5.8. Fun climbing! Wish the good stuff was longer.