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The Schwa Area
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(Beautiful Bastard) T 
Schwa, The T 

(Beautiful Bastard) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Unknown, real name unknown as well
Season: strong a.m. sun
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on Jan 31, 2012

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the corner. best to squeeze in between the two bl...

do you know my daddy? 

The climb is the right facing corner apprx. 20 ft. left of the start of the schwa. this has apparently been climbed by many. The obvious "death block" is actually quite secure at the start, we could not forcibly trundle it.

The climb has several, well-protected cruxes at the grade but it is not difficult for the grade, some may say 9.

This climb was very likely done and forgotten, we felt it was way too good and a perfect warm-up for the schwa so we are reporting it. the name fits well until we find any possible true FA info.

there are several other forgotten gems in this area. any FA info would be great. the rock here is pristine. rhonestone cowboys, for instance, looks outstanding... killer winter crag off the beaten path.




how do i get there? 

gaining the area is not as pleasant as one might think.

from black velvet parking head left down the mountain bike trail at the split entrance to black velvet. continue through trippy terrain for 20 mins until you reach a very large boulder on the trail that is further away than you'd like to walk. from the boulder, look up and spy the large roofs that mark the bend from east to south in the cliff. bushwhack up the long, steep hill trying to find the path of least resistance occasionally finding game trails. the hike is a push right up to the base of the wall but you will likely see bighorns and the area was a joy on an otherwise freezing day. (1.28.12)

i feel the approach took us closer to 60 mins. to onsight, but could be done in less time with experience. we jokingly suspected the hill proper is about 3 x's the hill that guards T sands/ ixtlan...


protection 

single rack to 4''. stoppers. 2-3 yellow alien size. 2-3 slings. (G rated protection level on this one)

there is an old bolt at the top-out located about 12 ft. left of the route. there is no way to back up this bolt. i made an anchor below and clipped it loose to test the bolt and the bolt seems 'ok'. a proper station would be ideal.





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