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 ADVANCED
East Wall Trail
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Beautiful Arete T 
Bin Leadin T 
Blue Pill T 
Dead Hazel T 
First Degree , The T,S 
Matrix, The T,S 
Red Dutch T 
Shark Tooth Flake T 
Skinny Fingers T,S 
Wildcat T 

Beautiful Arete 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Cleaned and TR'ed Leroy Froese c. 1999. Rescrubbed, bolted & led D Brayshaw, T de Monye April 2010
Season: sunny days most of the year
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Dru on Apr 26, 2010

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DB leading Beautiful Arete. Photo by Trina de Mony...

Description 

Begin up an offset finger crack notable for a huge xenolith pocket off to the left. Where the crack thins, step right to the arete. Climb on the left side of the arete up compact but featured rock past three bolts, then more directly on the arete as it becomes more broken, placing small wires and thin cams in horizontal breaks.

Originally cleaned in the late 1990s as a toprope, but never led, and subsequently became overgrown. Now established as a lead climb.


Location 

This route is located along the East Wall Trail about 40m to the right (east) of the Shark Tooth Flake area. Look for the obvious clean arete.

30m rappel from ring bolts on the top ledge. Ignore the old weathered slings wrapped around the fir tree on the ledge.


Protection 

3 bolts and 3 or 4 pieces of gear to 1" (small wires up to blue TCU size)



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By Yohan
Aug 12, 2010

Harder then it looks from the ground, climbed it for a warm up, thought it looked like 5.7, it was not.