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This blank-looking face yields a beautiful climb that is much better protected and easier than it looks. Start on the crack line about 20 feet to the left of the "real South Face." (Or start on the South Face crack and angle left to this route.) At about 50 feet, traverse right about 8 feet on an obvious break and follow a hairline crack to the top, enjoying the amazing and surprising face holds. Good pro, but skill with RPs is essential. A red Tri-Cam is helpful. Double ropes might also be useful. Belay at the ridge and either traverse down and right a few feet to a rap anchor (125-foot rappel) or head up to the summit.
Standard rack plus RPs and Tri-Cams.
|By Dave Holliday|
Nov 5, 2006
Surprisingly good climb. There's a lot of lichen on the route, so I don't think this gets much traffic at all. The holds were, for the most part, solid and I was never worried about pulling anything off. The traverse to the thin crack is airy but solid. There's no gear along said traverse and the first piece in the hairline crack after the traverse is an RP.
This isn't a great route for the aspiring 5.7 or 5.8 leader.
|By Jo Holloway|
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
From the perspective of following:
Dave put in some pretty small gear (black Alien; microstoppers) in a few places that would be more like mental pro. I wouldn't want to take a fall leading this route!
Having said that, this is a fantastic route. There are good holds all the way through with some nice little gymnastic moves to keep things spicy. It is such a treat to be able to climb on a face that still has a lichen garden. It gives the whole experience a good feral feeling!
You will use the same anchors as for the South Face to come down. Bring a 70m rope.