Beatle Brow Bulge
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 140 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | FA: Jim McCarthy, Matt Hale, Jim Alt, 1966. FFA: John Stannard, Henry Barber, 1973. |
Page Views: | 9,219 total · 42/month |
Shared By: | Denis O'Connor on Apr 23, 2006 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
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Description
The initial overhang on this route is much more imposing than the word "bulge" suggests, but "Beatle Brow Roof" lacks poetry. Either way, it's a great pitch. Historically rated 5.9+, the latest version of the Williams guide calls it 10-, which I think is accurate considering the sustained overhanging climbing above the roof.
Climb easy rock up to the roof, passing a vertically-placed pin about halfway up the face. Climb through the well-protected roof at a short left-facing corner/flake, and then straight up the overhanging face above on good holds. (Be aware that Blueberry Wine, a 5.11, goes through the roof at a similar looking left-facing corner a few feet to the right of BBB.)
Above the overhanging section is a ledge at which the angle eases and the rock becomes dirtier. To rappel using a single 60, go to a bolted station off to climber's right.
There is a second pitch to the top, of lesser quality and difficulty, which angles up right to a left-facing corner.
Climb easy rock up to the roof, passing a vertically-placed pin about halfway up the face. Climb through the well-protected roof at a short left-facing corner/flake, and then straight up the overhanging face above on good holds. (Be aware that Blueberry Wine, a 5.11, goes through the roof at a similar looking left-facing corner a few feet to the right of BBB.)
Above the overhanging section is a ledge at which the angle eases and the rock becomes dirtier. To rappel using a single 60, go to a bolted station off to climber's right.
There is a second pitch to the top, of lesser quality and difficulty, which angles up right to a left-facing corner.
Location
The access trail for Beatle Brow Bulge is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, head uphill to the right, past the huge right-facing corner of Asphodel.
Begin about 70 feet right of Asphodel, where the trail levels off.
Begin about 70 feet right of Asphodel, where the trail levels off.
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