|f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
The initial overhang on this route is much more imposing than the word "bulge" suggests, but "Beatle Brow Roof" lacks poetry. Either way, it's a great pitch. Historically rated 5.9+, the latest version of the Williams guide calls it 10-, which I think is accurate considering the sustained overhanging climbing above the roof.
Climb easy rock up to the roof, passing a vertically-placed pin about halfway up the face. Climb through the well-protected roof at a short left-facing corner/flake, and then straight up the overhanging face above on good holds. (Be aware that Blueberry Wine, a 5.11, goes through the roof at a similar looking left-facing corner a few feet to the right of BBB.)
Above the overhanging section is a ledge at which the angle eases and the rock becomes dirtier. There is a rap station at a tree about 30 feet above the ledge, from which a top-rope can be set up with a 70M rope. To rappel from there using a single 60, go to an intermediate station off to climber's right.
There is a second pitch to the top, of lesser quality and difficulty, which angles up right to a left-facing corner.
The access trail for Beatle Brow Bulge is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, head uphill to the right, past the huge right-facing corner of Asphodel.
Begin about 70 feet right of Asphodel, where the trail levels off.
Getting over the big roof.
At the crux.
Photo by Tricia Fusco.
The roof crux.
From: New York, New York
Apr 25, 2011
Be sure to pay attention to the beta above about needing a 70m rope to rappel or be lowered from the first pitch... we didn't, but at least we had tied a knot in the rope.
|By matt matera|
Jul 25, 2011
If you extend the anchor from the pine tree about 5 to 8 feet, then it is possible to top-rope this climb with a 60m rope. I tried it and while it is very close, it worked.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2012
Super fun, but I'd put this at 5.8+, just as hard as Modern Times but with less exposure and a neat short pumpy face above the roof.
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 16, 2012
Lots of fun. Nice burly pull.