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Beat the Heat 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley White and Taylor Davis, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 14, 2010

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Doing the pitch. Photographer Taylor Davis

Description 

Crux is getting on the climb. After that the climb goes up on big foot holds and small hand holds through the center of the wall (5.4-5) until you can move up and right onto some dirt steps for 15ft., with an occasional rock smear between the grasses (there is a loose toaster size rock that hasn't been removed yet here) until the belay bolts are reached. Look for the pin eyes along the way. One pin is in questionable rock. Climb is a little bit lichen covered but this doesn't detract from the climb. Eventually I would like to change the finish of the climb to being entirely on rock (moving left instead of right) but there appears to be a large loose rock preventing safe completion of it this way.


Location 

At the base of that Triple Corner trail much before the 'Giant Man' area there is a side trail that goes uphill with a 4th class start to it. I like to approach this climb going down from the Jimmy Cliff trail where this side trail top out. This connection happens past the slabs and before the Jimmy trail goes steeply up uphill. Some branches are down at the top of this side trail.


Protection 

Has two (#1.5 cam) placements for now (going to bolt these placements instead), Five soft blade pitons, four bolts. Two very far apart bolts are used for the belay. A eight foot sling is what I use. Not set up for rappelling yet. There is a walk walk off down to the right that is serious exposed 4th class.



Photos of Beat the Heat Slideshow Add Photo
Nearly at the rock finish to Beat the Heat. Photographer Taylor Davis
Nearly at the rock finish to Beat the Heat. Photog...
Doing the pitch. Photographer Taylor Davis
Doing the pitch. Photographer Taylor Davis
That's me, 'Pork Barrel Brad' below my newest climb. Photographer Taylor Davis
That's me, 'Pork Barrel Brad' below my newest clim...
Comments on Beat the Heat Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fun route, I thought I counted 5 bolts and only saw 2 pitons but I might have missed some, also place on bomber .5 in a pod during the long run out, and I didn't see any spots for the #1.5 mentioned in the description but I might have missed those too.