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 ADVANCED
Lots of Balls Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace T 
Autumn Sauna T 
Beat Street Trauma T 
Left of Fauna T 
Patient Pace T 

Beat Street Trauma 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Before 2008
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 19, 2007

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Route Description 

Pitch 1: (200) Climb a slab to a belay stance with 1.5 cracks.
Pitch 2: (200) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 1 cams may be helpful.
Pitch 3: (200) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 0.4 & 3.5 cams may be helpful.

Protection 

I recommend 8 cams (0.4-3.5), 8 nuts (0.3-1), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24).

Descent 

Rappel 200 to a 2-bolt/chain station on Beatstreet Trauma.
Rappel 100 to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
Rappel 100 to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
Rappel 100 to the ground.

History 

Arie Leeflang bolted this on lead, by hand, rope-solo in 2007.


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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Nov 20, 2007

This is a really fun moderate. A little more beta:

Pitch one is probably best if mixed up with 'Amazing Grace' to the left. Otherwise, climb a slabby crack to gritty runnel and slab to belay ledge (~120'- 5.5?).

Pitch two climbs the large west facing corner that arches near its top, exit out the top (fun) and aim slightly right on easy but runout rock (5.5) to alcove belay (195')- 2 bolt belay.

Pitch three heads back out left, following features to a hard to see bolt (~30'). Continue up to a right trending trough (#4 friend or equiv.). Two more bolts finish off an excellent slab (5.7-5.8). Either exit above into broken rock or head right onto the final slab (5.7-5.8, 2 more bolts) and a 2 bolt belay (and one other botched bolt that I'll clean up...)(195'). Its possible this was originally free-soloed or climbed previously, but I found little evidence on recon and tried to be sparing on the boltage.

TCU's or general equivalent are helpful in a couple of spots. Again a great moderate, but a couple of (easy) PG-13/R sections.