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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Ormes' Chimney T 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

Beat Me Up, Scotty 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Johnson, 1991
Page Views: 2,348
Submitted By: Chamo Breslin on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Beautiful and positive rails at the top.

  • 2015 Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Reopened after the floods. 2015 Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is located a few routes climber's left and down the slope from the New Era dihedral. Look for a line of old fixed pins ascending a flake before trending left about 25 feet off the ground, where the flake peters out. Five feet left of the start is a line of coldshuts leading to a separate anchor, a hard 5.12. Your parter will belay off of a boulder right of the climbing line.

    It has excellent rock and fun, steep moves. The thin crux comes between the first and third pins. Though old and some of them protruding more than you'd like, these said pins seem safe enough. There are two old bolts at the top.

    Protection 

    7-8 Garden-style fixed pins.


    Photos of Beat Me Up, Scotty Slideshow Add Photo
    A Morena vai sambar seu corpo todo balancar...
    A Morena vai sambar seu corpo todo balancar...
    Moving through the fun flake moves on Beat Me Up S...
    Moving through the fun flake moves on Beat Me Up S...
    Logan Berndt leading Beat Me Up, Scotty.
    Logan Berndt leading Beat Me Up, Scotty.
    The line.  The climber is moving out of the crux s...
    The line. The climber is moving out of the crux s...

    Comments on Beat Me Up, Scotty Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chamo Breslin
    Aug 11, 2004

    In my opinion, a better climb than Diesel and Dust, which the guidebooks talk up more.
    By kevin jenkins
    Sep 4, 2004

    Chamo is right when he says this is an under-appreciated route. Don't let the looks fool you- some of these pins are bomber, and some may not hold body weight. Back up what you can, and take it easy around the third bolt.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 28, 2005

    Agreed - great line on excellent rock. The first few clips, in particular, make for fun pulling and body English.
    By Stewart M. Green
    Sep 19, 2005

    Beat Me Up Scotty has a beefy 1/2" bolt with chain and stainless steel ring to back up the two old pitons at the anchors. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the replacement gear.
    By Stubby-Ian
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 13, 2006

    Thanks for all your work in replacing stuff over there, Stewart, all the anchors look fantastic now!

    Agree with the above. Great route with lots of fun small holds, lots of tensiony moves. The old pins look sketchy, but all of 'em felt bomber, and there's gotta' be one every 6' or so.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 31, 2009
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    First off, great climb! to the 4th pin involves lots of fun moves on tiny holds and sweet movements. After that, the climbing eases to 5.8+/5.9-.

    Also, don't let the comments about the pins scare you off. On a scale of 1-10 for looking safe, I would rate the average garden pin a 3.5. These were at least 6. And the rock is not as soft as the typical red stuff everywhere else. It looks harder from the ground than it really is, don't worry!
    By mountainmicah83
    From: Colorado Springs
    Oct 22, 2011
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    As for Garden Standards, I would take a lead fall on every pin on that route.
    By davelewis
    Jan 24, 2012

    One of my favorite Garden routes, and while I can't remember ever fallen on it, I feel like if I did, the pins would definitely hold. I trust most of the drilled angles in The Garden, more than the pitted flexing coldshuts I see on neighboring routes. Thanks for replacing the anchors, Stewart.
    By dancesatmoonrise
    Jul 12, 2013
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    This route is harder than 10d. It is possible to move a couple feet right at the first three pins and get the 10d rating, as a friend did today. Going straight up over the pins is harder and is how I've always done it.

    Given the sporty nature of the line, I'd rate it using Shelf standards, for which it's pretty clearly around 11b. Way harder than others at the grade in the Garden, and harder than some of the 11a's in the Garden as well. Just my 2c.

    Interesting that the low crux is protected by angle pitons while the upper easier climbing uses those manky ringed pitons.

    Great route; brilliant moves through the short, well-protected crux.
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
    Apr 15, 2014

    I put this route off for a long time, because I've heard from fellow Garden goers it was super sandbagged in dirty...but I guess that inspired me today!? I finally did it and got the super fun OS and hardly believe it's 10d... 11a seems fair, since the crux is super short and just the start. In any case, a must do!
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