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Morrell's Wall
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Beat Feet T 
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Beat Feet 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: I will get back to you on this
Page Views: 2,057
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Apr 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Spectacular vistas are available from the top. No...
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Description 

Hard crack start that eases up considerably after ~ 6 meters. I found the first 3-4 meters to be the most difficult; the crux is the first 4 meters. NOTE: I think this climb goes at 5.8+.


Location 

This climb is the most obvious line on the N, N-E face. Look for a nice hand crack just to the right of Space Cadets. The line passes a small roof to the right and goes up a right facing corner (5.4 climbing). Exit left through a weakness once you surmount a huge block .


Protection 

Standard Rack. There is a fixed rap station about 20 m (65 ft) up and two hangers with chains at the top of the climb. Thus, you can get off with one or two ropes.



Photos of Beat Feet Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the rest of the climb from under the roof.
Looking up at the rest of the climb from under the...
Looking down from an under-the-roof belay.
Looking down from an under-the-roof belay.
Word to the wise! The giant block, seen behind the rappel rope, is challenging to protect, tricky to climb, and rates much higher than 5.4 in my book.
Word to the wise! The giant block, seen behind the...
The whole line.
BETA PHOTO: The whole line.
Comments on Beat Feet Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 4, 2012
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2008

This route is so terrific, it's basically my favorite 5.7 in the state. Stiff for the grade, however, so it's not really 5.7!!! DAS has the rating about right at 8+. Bring a #5 Camalot for the OW at the top.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
May 8, 2008

This route is continous and slippery near the bottom...half way up the crack there is a weird blank section for placing gear...Think I used a BD nut...
The upper pitch has a nice Chimmney section or you can just grab either side of the block and heave up like I did. We did a double rope rappell

By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Jan 12, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WOW! Awesome climb. I thought...yeah right, this start doesn't look slippery. Whoops, fell on my first piece when my foot slipped. Over compensate the # of draws that you think. Does a #5 really protect that squeeze? I had a 4 that I definitely couldn't use. Watch for HUGE drag at the top (big sling?). Careful to stay left on the repel or face a bad edge.

By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 13, 2009

Did this again yesterday, and it still felt hard! A C4 #5 protects the upper section just fine, but use a double sling or face bad rope drag at the top.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely my favorite climb in the McDowells! Such a great line and the pro is solid throughout. 8+ with couple tricky moves down low. But, protects well and felt really great the whole way. #5 was handy, thanks Roman -- soloed and used double ropes to clean and rap and had no problems or drag.

By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

PG-13 is for the off-width near the top. I protected with both a C4-#5 and C4-#4, but still got about 10 ft. above last piece while making somewhat delicate moves near the exit to top. The rest of the climb felt solid for protection.

By Guyface
Dec 18, 2010

Just did this route for the first time last weekend. Spectacular. Contrary to the Beta, there is no 2 bolt belay @ halfway, but rather fixed slings and cordage around the nose, and a crack to build anchor with cordalette.A #5 DOES protect the O/W crack on the left of the block up high. make sure to throw a runner on the last couple pieces at the block cause I didnt and had Gnarly rope drag. Single line rapped to the bottom and tied a second rope for my partner to haul up and double rap down...walked off the big block that is right of the start through the chossy chimney. GREAT ROUTE. will do it again.

By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 15, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great line, perfect pro, and tons of fun, especially done as one pitch. Lots of different techniques used on this one. Make sure you exit left onto the face just after the OW block. Don't follow the chimney up and right.

I will bring new webbing next time I'm up there for the top of P1 soon. The stuff that's there looks okay, but the newest cord is from over a year ago when I replaced it in Jan 2011.

A 70m rope will get you down in 2 raps. The first rap is long and I'm not positive a 60m would make it.

By Tradoholic
Aug 27, 2012

I never found this slippery, go try "Music Box" in JTree then we can talk slippery. #5 was nice for the top but the moves are pretty easy.

What's the slab route to the right with one rusty bolt to start?

By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Nov 4, 2012

a 60m rope does just barely get you to the location of the lower rap station (cordelette), literally inches. Using a 60 meter, we lowered the first person, set the rope to the middle, and with knots in the end, got the 2nd down safely. Be careful.
We didn't bring anything big enough for the block at the end, that was scary!