Beasto 5.10-
| 4,247 page views Good page? (2 likes)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Kirk Miller with Kai & Courtney |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kirk Miller on Sep 1, 2008 |
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Well-protected fun start.
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Description A fun Alley Oop move gets you past the first clip. Then up and left around the arete to snag the huecos, then back to the prow to finish. For bonus points avoid the huecos out left and go straight up the arete at the seventh bolt.
Location This is left of Turkey Jerky, see the topo photo.
Protection 11 bolts to ring & chain anchor.
Eric Schmeer on Beasto approaching the crux clip.
| Josh leading Beasto.
| Josh high on Beasto.
| Above the second bolt, fun route.
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By Kai Huang From: Thornton, CO Sep 1, 2008
| Great route! Makes you think twice at crux! |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 2, 2008 rating: 5.10+
| Pretty clever route! Crux move was interesting and off balance. Holds are solid. Consider a long draw for the bolt around the corner. Nice work! |
By Jeff Welch From: Thornton, CO Sep 10, 2008 rating: 5.10b
| A longish draw might be helpful on the 7th bolt (around the corner), but the real key is to flip the rope around the arete after clipping the 8th bolt. Otherwise there's some rope drag. Fun route! A crank at the start, cool undercling moves to a ledge, and a devious little crux on good holds. Well worthwhile. |
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Jun 5, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves. |
By Niccole From: Denver, CO Sep 2, 2009 rating: 5.10
| This has the best start!!! I would go back just to do the start, kind of a bouldering move...but well protected and then the climb changes. Very fun. |
By Dave Clark 5.10 From: Golden, CO Apr 28, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Very nice! Good variety for a single sport pitch. |
By Brent Apgar Sep 25, 2010
| Definitely want to use some longer draws on the upper arete. Without the extra wiggle room, you can't really get the rope to run nicely. The shorter draws won't allow you to flip the rope back to the right side of the arete. |
By Count Chockula From: Littleton, CO Aug 19, 2011
| Fun climb, but soft even for 5.10-, maybe even a little contrived at the crux. The moves around/onto the arete seemed .9 at most. Not sure why the crux clip was on the face left of the arete proper. Seems like it should have been on the right side face of the arete in line with the other clips on the route. This would alleviate the need to use a longer draw and probably make the moves up the arete more 5.10ish. Then again, maybe I just did it wrong. I got suckered into using a couple chalked holds left of the arete while using the positive holds on the arete with my right hand. |
By Kirk Miller From: Golden, CO Aug 19, 2011
| Easiest possible way, .9, but if you pull the direct arete and don't step left around the corner, pretty solid .10 so I'll go with .10-. |
By Mahjoe Aug 20, 2012
| Super fun route! Definitely leave a longer sling on the 7th and/or 8th bolt to avoid rope drag. |
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