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The Canal Zone
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Beasto 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kirk Miller with Kai & Courtney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,611
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (162)
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Eric on Beasto approaching the crux clip.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun Alley Oop move gets you past the first clip. Then up and left around the arete to snag the huecos, then back to the prow to finish. For bonus points avoid the huecos out left and go straight up the arete at the seventh bolt.

Location 

This is left of Turkey Jerky, see the topo photo.

Protection 

11 bolts to ring & chain anchor.


Photos of Beasto Slideshow Add Photo
Well-protected fun start.
Well-protected fun start.
Josh high on Beasto.
Josh high on Beasto.
Josh leading Beasto.
Josh leading Beasto.
Above the second bolt, fun route.
Above the second bolt, fun route.

Comments on Beasto Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 1, 2008

Great route! Makes you think twice at crux!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Pretty clever route! Crux move was interesting and off balance. Holds are solid. Consider a long draw for the bolt around the corner. Nice work!
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A longish draw might be helpful on the 7th bolt (around the corner), but the real key is to flip the rope around the arete after clipping the 8th bolt. Otherwise there's some rope drag.

Fun route! A crank at the start, cool undercling moves to a ledge, and a devious little crux on good holds. Well worthwhile.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves.
By Niccole
From: Denver, CO
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This has the best start!!! I would go back just to do the start, kind of a bouldering move...but well protected and then the climb changes. Very fun.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Apr 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very nice! Good variety for a single sport pitch.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Sep 25, 2010

Definitely want to use some longer draws on the upper arete. Without the extra wiggle room, you can't really get the rope to run nicely. The shorter draws won't allow you to flip the rope back to the right side of the arete.
By Count Chockula
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 19, 2011

Fun climb, but soft even for 5.10-, maybe even a little contrived at the crux. The moves around/onto the arete seemed .9 at most. Not sure why the crux clip was on the face left of the arete proper. Seems like it should have been on the right side face of the arete in line with the other clips on the route. This would alleviate the need to use a longer draw and probably make the moves up the arete more 5.10ish. Then again, maybe I just did it wrong. I got suckered into using a couple chalked holds left of the arete while using the positive holds on the arete with my right hand.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Aug 19, 2011

Easiest possible way, .9, but if you pull the direct arete and don't step left around the corner, pretty solid .10 so I'll go with .10-.
By Mahjoe
Aug 20, 2012

Super fun route! Definitely leave a longer sling on the 7th and/or 8th bolt to avoid rope drag.