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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

Beastie Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Schum and Len Margolin, 1970
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: George Perkins on Feb 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Ken Sims Soloing Beastie Crack.

Description 

Climb the finger crack crux off the ground. This is 5.9 to 5.10+ depending on finger size and reach. Being taller with fat fingers helps. You can get finger size cams in, but don't fall, because without a perfect belay you'll land awkwardly on jagged rocks. DON'T SMEAR ON THE PETROGLYPH! If you're not sure you can climb this without impacting the archaeology, don't climb it.

Easy 5.4 stemming leads to the top.


Ethics Rant 

I recommend people avoid this climb, because (1) it's a moderately painful 10' boulder problem followed by much easier non-descript climbing so it's boring for a 5.10 climber; and (2) if you're not a 5.10 climber, if you don't take a short ankle-twisting fall on the sharp rocks, you'll probably leave shoe rubber on the rock art- which is exactly the type of behavior that gets entire areas closed because non-climbers/land managers (in this case- LA National Lab) just don't understand how important it is to climb every crack there is. (That being said- the LA Mountaineers unofficial toprope group always seems to have a rope set on it when they visit the Y and that organization has been climbing here longer than anyone else...)


Location 

Just to the right of the cave on the north side of the 'Y', right of Wisconsin and the Nose, find a finger crack right next to a petroglyph.


Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 1".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees... which pisses me off because it will encourage traffic and possibly lead to damage to the rock art.



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