Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bell's Beast
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast T 
Beauty T 

Beast 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 31 May 2011 FFA: Peter Vintoniv and JG, 10 June 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 1,218
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Topping the first (of two) burly overhangs on the ...

Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the bivy platform (sheltered, shaded and nice lunch and rope up spot), walk east along the base of the Beast until reaching its lowest point. White colored compact granite similar to that found higher on the creature's face marks the spot.

Pitch #1: An easy bulge past a bolt leads to white rock steep slab past 4 more bolts to easier ground. Climb through fun horizontal sections past 4 more fixed pitons and bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.

From this lower ledge, 3rd class past bushes straight up to gray rock under the white horned creature's neck. 30m

Pitch #2: Casual climbing past 1 bolt leads to a two-bolt belay at the Beast's neck. 5.6, 20m.

Pitch #3: Climb past 10 bolts through and above the left horn up very fun not so beastie moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 45m.

Pitch #4: Climb into the corners of the first roof. 1 piton, 1 bolt, and 1 thread protect the first beastly (pumpy!) bit and then continue up to a left veering hand crack under a steep roof to a bolt and then tip toe right to a two-bolt belay. 5.11a, 30m.

Pitch #5: Move right and around the corner and find easy ground to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 20m.

Walk off to the west gully.

Location 

Although the belays are bolted, most parties upon reaching the top may prefer to walk off to the north and follow a cairned western gully/trail back to the huge roofs sheltering the bivy platform at the feet of the Beast.

Protection 

QDs, set of C3s and Camalots to #3 and set of Nuts. A few shoulder slings helpful. Possibly doubles 0.3 to 0.75 and 2.0. Belays are bolted.


Photos of Beast Slideshow Add Photo
PV slaying the Beast's final pitch
PV slaying the Beast's final pitch
Beast from up canyon of crag approach trail. White horned creature's head being prominent.  <br /> <br />Franziska Garrett photo
Beast from up canyon of crag approach trail. White...
Slabby crux of the 1st pitch of Beast.
Slabby crux of the 1st pitch of Beast.
Topo of the 2-4th pitch of the Beast.
Topo of the 2-4th pitch of the Beast.
Beastly flowers
Beastly flowers
Following the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Following the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Crux of the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Crux of the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Top of the second overhang (whew) on the 4th pitch of Beast.
Top of the second overhang (whew) on the 4th pitch...
The 2nd pitch belay on Beast.
The 2nd pitch belay on Beast.
Beware the poison ivy forest alongside the descent gully! Not to mention a buzzworm or two....
Beware the poison ivy forest alongside the descent...

Comments on Beast Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Coats
Sep 13, 2011

We really enjoyed this route, and it would easily deserve three stars if not for the bit of third class after the 1st pitch. The quartz inclusions are a bit flaky, but the dark granite is superb (dare I say better than most of Little C?). It was quite visionary of James to check this one out, as it's not very attractive looking from a distance, but turns out to be a great route, and very well equipped. Go do it!
By Daniel Winder
Nov 23, 2012

Don't need any gear until pitch 4. A single rack is more than enough, leave the doubles and C3s home. We accidentally solo'd pitch 2 and pitch 5 is just a short scramble. 3 and 4 are the good pitches. Lots of long slings for 4th pitch is a good idea.