Beast 666 

The Beast is such a classic route, quite reminiscent of chimneying out West.

The anchor, though, is messed up. At the end of the crack, we had to traverse about fifteen feet left across a vertical garden to reacher the Cerberus anchor. That's all we could find up there. This would be a candidate for a (gasp!) new bolted anchor just up and right of the end of the chimney.

FA. Paul Ross ,George Myers 1972. FFA first pitch.James Dunn 1977

Damn it, i knew as soon as I did this that Meyer was on the f/a. Sorry

No need to add an anchor to the Beast, just use the bolted anchor on the first pitch of Recompense. Above the chimney are a couple of manky pins — after backing them up, step right onto the slab and climb the groove. It's probably 5.7 or 5.8 to the anchor. It could use some cleaning but the climbing isn't bad. From there you need two ropes to rappel; have your second tag up the rap line.

I'm surprised it took this long for someone to chime in suggesting that The Beast doesn't need an anchor. Erik, how far do you head up the groove before you get to the Recompense anchor?

It's probably 30 or 40 feet of climbing beyond where you would cut left to reach the Cerberus anchor. You can get a couple pieces of gear. It's a bit exciting covered with lichen, but if it was clean it'd be fine.

A well-stocked normal rack plus one number six Camalot or Friend is perfect, by the way — you don't need any other big gear because the crack in the back of the chimney takes nuts and small cams.

"you may as well fail on this!" makes no sense in a route description. 1) It's not that hard 2) It's pretty well protected 3) That's an opinion not a fact.

My description was relating to the initial 5.10 cracks. May as well try the 5.11 while your there. I would say that the climbing above the anchor is pretty hard compared to the start.