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The runout section on the first pitch...
This is one of the classic 5.7 climbs at the Leap that should not be missed.
P1: Start in a short RF dihedral for 20ft, run it out to the left until you hit a lieback flake. Continue upwards into a LF flake system, which will take some larger gear.
P2: The "reach" pitch. Follow fun cracks and face holds to the large reach. Continue up on solid 5.6 overlaps to a good ledge.
P3: Follow a right leaning crack system with a roof to the top.
gear to 3.5"
Jim Bridwell on "Bear's Reach".
Photo by Blitzo.
Charleen on "Bear's Reach", first pitch.
Photo by ...
BETA PHOTO: Brett making his way up the flake section on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Jason just after the "Bear's Reach" move and headi...
BETA PHOTO: Anne starting up the 2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: The 2nd pitch of Bear's reach
just below the bear's reach move
Dana starts up the Bear's Reach.
Dana a bit higher on P1 of Bear's Reach.
Be forewarned, 3 popular routes converge at this b...
BETA PHOTO: Bear's Reach. I've only climbed it once, so let m...
The direct finish.
heading up the first pitch
Looking down the steep and dreamy 2nd pitch
All smiles on the first pitch.
Reaching on Bear's Reach.
Second pitch above the "reach".
Second pitch of Bear's reach, nearing "The Bushy L...
1st Pitch! Great climb!
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Apr 18, 2006
One of the funnest 5.7's in you will ever do. It's a classic. Great potection. I didn't have much trouble on the "reach". My wife 5.2' did not have trouble either.
Mar 6, 2008
Not to be missed!!! You are cheating yourself if you go through Tahoe without stopping to do this. Also, check corrugation corner if bears reach has a line; IMHO more intimidating, but very reasonable.
Dan's video is what got me into climbing and getting to do this climb was very exciting for me.
This climbing feels like a 5.7 and gear is good even for chickens like me.
Jul 21, 2008
The reach on P2 isn't so bad, but I was worried while climbing the flakes. They provide a definite lack of security and make this climb a bit heady. Even so, it's jugs nearly all the way up. The 5.9 beached whale finish is a worthy last move at the very top.
|By Tom Johnson|
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Aug 5, 2008
Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you.
|By Bruce Willey|
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 24, 2008
The .9 finish is not to be missed. With all that liebacking below, it adds something really special to the end.
|By bob branscomb|
From: Lander, WY
Apr 1, 2009
Where else but Lover's Leap can you be on a 5.7 and look straight to the deck for 300 feet between your heels? Great route.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 23, 2009
I'm 5'6" and have a negative ape index; I didn't feel the reach was that bad. In fact, I wasn't even sure I had climbed the "reachy" part until I was done with the pitch.
|By Wesley Ashwood|
From: Durango, CO
Jul 20, 2009
Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked.
|By Tim Camuti|
From: Placerville, CA
Aug 16, 2009
Not worth the hype.
The climbing was unremarkable and the high number of rotten flakes meant that I trusted only about 3 pieces of pro per pitch. I was comfortable on the climb, but the poor rock condition greatly diminished any "classic" value this has. Many better climbs on the East Wall.
Aug 24, 2010
A great 5.7.
From: grass valley, ca
Apr 30, 2012
the reach is real; trouble is up to you
more places are no good for pro than usual here, still protectable
|By Phil McAllister|
Jun 25, 2012
The reach isn't so bad. i'm 5ft8in - the obvious holds are the flakes (i was expecting the reach to be between two huge jugs bit flakes') my arms were just a little bit too short - until i got my feet on the much smaller face holds - they're allover the right side of the 'reach holds' and perfectly decent holds.